{"id":4376,"date":"2016-05-20T12:02:30","date_gmt":"2016-05-20T19:02:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=4376"},"modified":"2016-05-20T12:11:46","modified_gmt":"2016-05-20T19:11:46","slug":"simple-engraving-for-knifemakers","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=4376","title":{"rendered":"Simple Engraving for Knifemakers"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/b>Originally produced for the Bladesmith’s Forum, August 2012: \u00a0http:\/\/www.bladesmithsforum.com\/index.php?showtopic=24166<\/a><\/p>\n

I\u2019ve been asked to create a tutorial on simple hammer and chisel engraving, and I\u2019ve chosen to do one oriented towards knifemakers.\u00a0 But, let\u2019s get a few things straight up front, so no one has any illusions.\u00a0 This tutorial WILL NOT make you an engraver.\u00a0 It is ONLY intended to give you the tiniest sip from the engraving fire hose, and allow you to determine if you have any interest in engraving.\u00a0 It is designed to give you a brief survey without making you a pauper or forcing you to sell your firstborn. You must understand that engraving is difficult at best and it has a LONG AND STEEP learning curve.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve chosen the easiest and cheapest way for you to create and sharpen a successful graver, but the system is not free.\u00a0 There are many, many ways to make a workable graver IF YOU KNOW HOW, or have an experienced engraver at your side to teach you.\u00a0 If you choose to do anything other than what I am presenting here, then YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN!\u00a0 I have neither the time nor the inclination to answer a hundred questions about why the graver you cobbled together won\u2019t work.\u00a0 Don\u2019t even bother to post your question here.\u00a0 In fact, if you have a question about sharpening your graver, I won\u2019t bother to help unless you post a picture of your sharpening setup! On this one point it\u2019s my way or the highway.\u00a0 Period.<\/p>\n

If that\u2019s understood, then let\u2019s get started.\u00a0 If money is a problem and you are REALLY keen on trying engraving, then hammer and chisel is a fairly inexpensive way to give it a try.\u00a0\u00a0The only problem with H and C is the LONG learning curve to get acceptable results in any kind of complex engraving.<\/p>\n

However, that said, there are some excellent shortcuts available today that will definitely help.\u00a0\u00a0The engraving world is full of grey beard engraver\u2019s horror stories of their apprenticeships;\u00a0\u00a0“I wasn’t allowed to do anything during the first (fill in the blank with a number) years except learn to hand sharpen a basic graver.\u00a0\u00a0I didn’t engrave anything for the first 23 years, and they wouldn’t let me touch a gun for another 35 years” yada yada yada.<\/p>\n

I believe that sharpening a graver and getting repeatable results is by far the most important, basic thing to learn, and there are some excellent sharpening devices available now that weren’t available just a few years ago.\u00a0\u00a0They make sharpening a piece of cake.<\/p>\n

Here’s what you want to start with – Lindsay Graver Sharpening System:\u00a0\u00a0http:\/\/airgraver.com\/sharpening.htm<\/a>\u00a0 A note here:\u00a0 I am not employed by Lindsay Engraving, nor do I receive any sort of benefit from Lindsay Engraving.\u00a0 These are just plain brilliantly foolproof tools and fixtures.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1a\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Above is the Universal 116 degree fixture, shown here with a diamond bench stone for hand sharpening.\u00a0 There are quite a few additional templates (the clear plastic parts above) available to make and sharpen other types of gravers, most of them under $25.\u00a0 You only buy the metal graver holder once.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1b\"<\/a> Above is my Lindsay Universal sharpener, shown disassembled.\u00a0 If you do find you wish to continue in engraving, this sharpening system will be of daily use to you.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1c\"<\/a> If you have a drillpress, shown above is the Lap Mandrel Adapter for converting a drillpress to a power hone (about halfway down the page):\u00a0\u00a0http:\/\/airgraver.com…AVER SHARPENING<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1d\"<\/a>
\nAbove is one of the Lindsay Templates in use with the converted drill press mandrel and diamond lap.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1e\"<\/a>
\nYou’ll also need a diamond lap with the mandrel, I’d recommend the 600 grit to start with (same page).<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1f\"
\n<\/a>For the chisel part, Lindsay also sells one here\u00a0\u00a0(Stainless Chisel that holds 3\/32″ square gravers for hammer\/chisel engraving):\u00a0\u00a0http:\/\/airgraver.com…al Graver Tools<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1g\"<\/a> \"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1i\"
\nOr, you can make your own with a piece of mild steel rod.\u00a0 Above is the one I made and occasionally use.\u00a0 Drill a 1\/8 inch hole in the end, with an allen screw drilled and tapped crosswise to retain the 3\/32 inch square graver.\u00a0\u00a0Round the end that you hammer on, and chamfer the end with the graver so you don’t mar your engraving.\u00a0\u00a0Don\u2019t forget to grind or file a flat side down the length so it won’t roll off your bench and land on the point of the graver (absolutely guaranteed otherwise!).<\/p>\n

You’ll also need an engraver’s hammer, or at least a small ball peen.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1h\"
\n<\/a>And, finally, you’ll need some graver blanks (start out with the inexpensive HSS gravers, about halfway down the page):\u00a0\u00a0http:\/\/airgraver.com…al Graver Tools<\/a><\/p>\n

You can begin engraving on a piece of mild steel, brass or copper hot glued to a heavy, flat block of wood (say about 12″ x 12″ and two inches thick).\u00a0\u00a0If that doesn’t dampen your enthusiasm, then purchase or begin assembling a pitch bowl.\u00a0\u00a0After that, an engraver’s vise, and then the sky is the limit.<\/p>\n

An optivisor will be helpful.\u00a0\u00a0I use a stereo microscope for almost all of my work, but I\u2019m getting a little long in the tooth and my eyes aren\u2019t what they once were…<\/p>\n

Don’t skimp on the sharpening fixture and either the diamond bench stones or the drillpress setup.\u00a0\u00a0You WILL break MANY graver tips.\u00a0\u00a0Trying to hand sharpen without these aids can be done, but will be VERY, VERY FRUSTRATING!\u00a0 I don\u2019t personally know any engraver who hand sharpens gravers today.<\/p>\n

One other thing.\u00a0\u00a0I’ve noticed that all professional engraving tools involve prices measured in hundreds.\u00a0\u00a0Very little engraving equipment is available that is priced under a hundred bucks, and most things are many hundreds.\u00a0\u00a0Just so you know!\u00a0\u00a0You’re about to start out on a path of many very bad habits, more expensive than smoking and at least as addictive.\u00a0\u00a0But, engraving won’t kill you.\u00a0\u00a0Engraving might cause your significant other to kill you, however….<\/p>\n

If you check out this thread on the Engraving Forum (http:\/\/www.engraving…ight=networking<\/a>), you can probably find an engraver near you to go visit.\u00a0\u00a0Most engravers are like the bladesmiths and blacksmiths on this forum – friendly and helpful.\u00a0\u00a0A test drive and a little face time will go a long way towards answering your questions and encouraging you, and will shorten the learning curve dramatically.\u00a0\u00a0Good luck!<\/p>\n

Below is the minimum you need to buy for the drill press version, you can easily make graver holders and make do with a small hammer:<\/p>\n

Sharpening Fixture without stones
\n<\/b>(comes with Universal 116 degree V template) \u00a0 $89.00
\n<\/b>600 grit Diamond lap\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 $25.00
\n<\/b>Lap Mandrel Adapter for converting a
\n<\/b>drill press to a power hone\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 $19.50
\n<\/b>High Speed Steel gravers (pack of 6) \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 $30.00\u00a0<\/b>Total (not including shipping)\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 $163.50<\/b><\/p>\n

And below is the minimum you’ll need with the bench stone version (you can rough out the graver blank with a regular bench grinder, and just refine the cutting end by hand).\u00a0\u00a0I REALLY recommend the drill press route…<\/p>\n

Sharpening Fixture without stones
\n<\/b>(comes with Universal 116 degree V template) \u00a0 $89.00
\n<\/b>Bench stone 600 diamond grit\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 $39.00
\n<\/b>High Speed Steel gravers (pack of 6) \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 $30.00
\n<\/b>Total (not including shipping)\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 $158.00<\/b><\/p>\n

And let me repeat the one piece of wisdom you need to understand – It is the business end of the graver (the cutting point\/face and heels) that will determine if you make a success of this.\u00a0\u00a0Without the ability to properly create, sharpen and RE-SHARPEN a graver, nothing else will matter and this will simply be an exercise in FRUSTRATION!\u00a0\u00a0Been there, done that, and I have a few dozen t-shirts…<\/p>\n

If you find you don’t like engraving, you can probably recover at least some of your money by selling the stuff you bought on either the Engraver’s Cafe or the Engraving Forum.<\/p>\n

And, finally, visit an engraver!\u00a0\u00a0Join the two engraving forums (they’re free, just like this one) and ask if there are any engravers in your area willing to let you visit.<\/p>\n

Sorry to turn this into a lecture, but this is the key to success in engraving.\u00a0\u00a0Best of luck!<\/p>\n

To answer a previously asked question, why do you need High Speed Steel (HSS) gravers?\u00a0 When using power sharpeners to shape gravers, HSS won’t be damaged by heat build up like simple carbon steels will.\u00a0\u00a0Also, HSS, carbide, Carbalt\u2122, M42 (and a GRS brand carbide whose name escapes me at the moment) provide more reliable and better hardness than a hit-or-miss simple carbon steel home hardening\/tempering routine.\u00a0\u00a0Since you are a bladesmith, think of the tiny point of a graver as a very high performance knife that must be sharp, stay sharp, function absolutely predictably, fail as seldom as possible and be quick to get back into the fight if it does fail.<\/p>\n

Also, different alloy gravers provide better, smoother cuts on different kinds of metals.\u00a0\u00a0For instance, carbide alloy gravers cut silver and copper smoother and with a better finish than steel gravers, so the hardness of the workpiece isn’t the only issue.<\/p>\n

Most professional and serious hobby engravers use power sharpeners – time is money and enjoyment.<\/p>\n

In engraving, having reliable and repeatable hardness and sharpened cutting points means fewer slips and fewer broken tips which lead to slips, fewer slips mean fewer ruined engravings or mistakes to fix.<\/p>\n

10 or 20 or 40 hours (or MANY more hours) into a complex engraving full of gold inlay (at $1600 per ounce), then having your poorly-sharpened homemade POS graver tip break and slip and ruin the work?\u00a0\u00a0All just to avoid buying a $6 HSS graver blank?\u00a0\u00a0It’s bad enough using properly made and sharpened gravers.\u00a0\u00a0Believe me when I say you will need as many factors working in your favor as you can get.\u00a0\u00a0Engraving isn’t an art where you can just toss it back into the forge and fix a missed hit or straighten it and try the bend again.<\/p>\n

The benefit of HSS isn’t so much in the using, it’s in the sharpening and not ruining the temper due to heat build-up from a rotating diamond disk.\u00a0\u00a0The point of a graver is a tiny thing, it doesn’t take much heat to ruin the temper.\u00a0\u00a0It is not a cold chisel.\u00a0\u00a0Plus, HSS comes ready to use – you don’t do any heat treatment.\u00a0 Hence the diamond stones or laps.<\/p>\n

There are lots of ways to make and sharpen a graver.\u00a0\u00a0Some of the best engravers could sharpen a nail on the sidewalk and create a masterpiece.\u00a0\u00a0What I have tried to do here is show the simplest, most inexpensive but also foolproof method of doing the one thing in engraving you MUST do well to be successful.\u00a0\u00a0If you feel you simply have to strike out on your own to rediscover fire and reinvent the wheel, knock yourself out.\u00a0 Please do it somewhere else.\u00a0\u00a0I prefer to engrave rather than do research and development.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1j\"
\n<\/a>I\u2019ll mention one other method of sharpening that will work reliably for you.\u00a0 GRS sells the\u00a0 GRS Dual Angle Sharpening Fixture (see above).
\nhttp:\/\/www.grstools.com\/tool-sharpening\/power-hone\/sharpening-fixtures.html
\n<\/a>
\n<\/a> \"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1k\"<\/a>
\nAnd, above, is my Hamler Fixture (no longer commercially available).\u00a0 Both of these are well made, adjustable sharpening systems that will produce reliable results.\u00a0 If you wish to use one of these devices, here is a link to instructions on how to grind the Lindsay Graver Point geometry (see bottom of Web page): \u00a0http:\/\/airgraver.com\/engraving_graver.htm<\/a>\u00a0 You\u2019ll have to agree to a patent license agreement, but it is free.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m not going to spend lots of time describing the use of the Lindsay Sharpening System.\u00a0 The Lindsay tool web site has an excellent tutorial for that, as well as an excellent video.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s the link: \u00a0http:\/\/www.engravingschool.com\/private\/Lindsay%20Sharpener.htm<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_2\"<\/a>
\nHere\u2019s one of my sharpening setups in my little Sherline mill, about the same as the Lindsay lap mandrel in a drill press.\u00a0 I use a small slitting saw holder for my diamond laps.\u00a0 The surface the Lindsay template rests on needs to be 1\/2 an inch below the top surface of the diamond lap.\u00a0 I have to use a piece of wood to provide enough clearance for the bottom of the slitting saw holder.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_3\"
\n<\/a>Above is the smaller of the two Universal templates in use to grind the basic top and bottom facets on the graver.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_5\"
\n<\/a>Above is my graver storage rack.\u00a0 These are all different shapes and sizes of the gravers I use pretty much daily.\u00a0 Most of them I make and sharpen with the Lindsay Sharpening System templates.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_6\"<\/a>
\nAbove, the larger template grinds the 45 degree face of the graver.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_7\"
\nAnd here, I\u2019m putting in one of the heels.\u00a0 For the heels of my gravers, I don\u2019t have the mill switched on.\u00a0 I just move the diamond lap by hand a few inches.\u00a0 You can see the dark line behind the business end of the graver – that\u2019s as far as I had to move it to put in the almost microscopic heels.\u00a0 Don\u2019t let this fool you, however.\u00a0 If sharpening is the most important thing you must learn, then grinding the heels is the most important part of sharpening.\u00a0 Without these two heels, your graver will be impossible to control.<\/p>\n

The basic rule of thumb for heels is that long heels are for long cuts that are straight or gently curving.\u00a0 Short heels are for the tight turns.\u00a0 A hint here:\u00a0 The most difficult cut in engraving is a straight line.\u00a0 Don\u2019t skimp on practicing straight lines.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_8\"
\nThe next item you\u2019ll need is a system to hold your work.\u00a0 Above is a large wooden pitch block (I\u2019m guessing about 12 inches square) with pitch built up on top.\u00a0 This one is used by Ford Hallam, who carves\/chisels exceptional Japanese-style metalwork.\u00a0 This block may well have hollows cut in it and lead poured in to increase it\u2019s weight.<\/p>\n

You would do well to check out what he and other talented metalworkers do on: \u00a0http:\/\/followingtheironbrush.org<\/a><\/p>\n

If you don\u2019t have easy access to engraver\u2019s or chasers\u2019s pitch\u00a0(http:\/\/www.northwestpitchworks.com)<\/a>, don\u2019t fret.\u00a0 Quietly snagging your better half\u2019s hot glue gun will do in a pinch.\u00a0 When finished engraving I\u2019m told wetting the metal and glue joint with alcohol and waiting a few moments, the workpiece can be popped out of the glue.\u00a0 A note here:\u00a0 I haven\u2019t tried this.\u00a0 I\u2019m not brave enough to steal my better half\u2019s hot glue gun.<\/p>\n

The most important part here is to find a large, heavy, stable something or other to glue your workpiece to.\u00a0 This object needs to be able to be easily turned, however.\u00a0 You can only engrave a short portion of a curve with hammer and chisel before you must stop and reposition the work by turning the block.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_9\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Above is an image of a European engraver using a tall leg vise.\u00a0 In this case, rather than moving the workpiece, the engraver will walk around the vise as needed.\u00a0 Of course, it should go without saying you would need easy access to all sides of the vise, something not available in my studio.<\/p>\n

Another thought is if you have a large, common bench vise that has the feature where you can loosen a screw and get the vise to turn horizontally.
\n
\n\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_10\"<\/a> Above is an image of several engravers using hammer and chisel, and some of their holding methods.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_11\"<\/a>
\nAbove is my engraver\u2019s pitch bowl and the engraving items we\u2019ll begin with.\u00a0 this little cast iron bowl rests in a rubber doughnut, and is 2\/3 filled with lead, then with pitch.\u00a0 I use a small torch with a soft flame (close off the air holes) to warm the pitch, then set in the metal workpiece.\u00a0 You need to warm the metal workpiece as well to get the pitch to stick well.\u00a0 I reverse the procedure to get it out when finished.<\/p>\n

PS – a heat gun on low power really works well for this.<\/p>\n

Also note the engraver\u2019s hammer at the bottom of the picture.\u00a0 These are fairly small , light hammers, but with wide faces.\u00a0 They are designed to have wide faces so you can hit the back of a narrow graver while not looking at it.\u00a0 A small ballpeen hammer will work well enough for you to try this, but an engraver\u2019s hammer will be lot more enjoyable if you intend to keep engraving.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_12\"<\/a>
\nAbove is my chunk of 3\/16 inch thick 5160 steel knife simulation installed in the pitch.\u00a0 Since this tutorial is for knifemakers, we\u2019re going to use knife steel and not pussy foot around with soft metals like copper, brass or nickel silver.\u00a0 You can figure those out on your own, we\u2019re going to jump right into the deep end.\u00a0 I use a cold ball peen hammer to push the warm pitch around with.\u00a0 The pitch doesn\u2019t stick well to cold metal, as long as it has enough mass to resist being warmed by the pitch.\u00a0 Note how I\u2019ve piled the pitch up around the edges of the metal.\u00a0 That will provide a mechanical method to grip the metal as well as sticking to the pitch.\u00a0 I\u2019m a \u201cbelt and suspenders\u201d kind of guy.\u00a0 I don\u2019t want an unpleasant surprise here – I need all the factors working for me, not against me.<\/p>\n

You can see the design I\u2019ve drawn on the metal with a fine tip Sharpie permanent marker.\u00a0 For our first engraving exercise we\u2019re going to make an attractive transition between the blade and handle of our knife.\u00a0 Imagine the blade to the left, and the handle to the right (I\u2019ve written \u201cblade\u201d on the metal, with an arrow – we\u2019re going to be turning this thing around and around……).\u00a0 Safety Note:\u00a0 If this were a real knife, be sure and tape the blade so you don\u2019t cut yourself!\u00a0 Oh, yes, before I forget.\u00a0 We must engrave and carve this transition BEFORE we harden the blade.\u00a0 Don\u2019t try to engrave hardened or tempered steel.\u00a0 Annealed or normalized steel, yes.\u00a0 Hardened or tempered, no.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_12a\"<\/a> \"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_12b\"<\/a>
\nAbove are a couple of examples of this kind of transition between the blade and the handle.\u00a0 Ours is only going to be half of the above, as for a single edged knife rather than these double edged examples.\u00a0 Notice the texture inside the engraved areas of the transition.\u00a0 We\u2019ll be doing that as well, and checking out an alternative texture method as well.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_13\"<\/a>
\nWell, it\u2019s finally time to make our first cut.\u00a0 Notice the little curl of metal from the cut ahead of the graver tip.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_16\"
\nWe\u2019re going to begin the cut somewhere in the center of the broad curve of the blade side outline (red arrow).\u00a0 It\u2019s much easier to start a cut in a gently curving arc than in a tight curve, because we\u2019re going to have to turn the work around and cut the other way, joining the two cuts unnoticeably in the middle.\u00a0 This little rule of thumb doesn\u2019t work as well for a straight line.\u00a0 It\u2019s really easy for the viewer to notice a slight kink in a straight line.\u00a0 Try to start a straight line at the end and cut all the way to the other end.\u00a0 Note, however, that these are NOT hard and fast rules.\u00a0 They are largely dependent on the design, and sometimes you WILL BE FORCED to violate the rules just because Mother Nature is an uncaring bitch.<\/p>\n

On this little knife (simulator, about three inches long, if I hadn\u2019t mentioned it before) we start in the center because it\u2019s much easier to cut TO the edge of the metal than FROM the edge.\u00a0 If the center of your design isn\u2019t as good a place to start, then start a short distance from the edge, then come back and complete the cut back out to the edge.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_14\"<\/a>
\nTo start the cut, you will first have to get the point of the graver to stick in the metal.\u00a0 You can get this to happen either by putting extra pressure on the graver tip from above, or angling the graver higher.\u00a0 You\u2019ll have to do a little experimentation here to figure it out, that\u2019s why we\u2019re not practicing on a real knife.\u00a0 Then begin tapping the back of the graver holder with the hammer.\u00a0 These are firm taps, not hammer blows.\u00a0 You\u2019re not forging here, bladesmith.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_15\"<\/a>
\nOnce the graver has cut to the appropriate depth (experiment here, I can\u2019t explain how deep), begin to drop the angle of the graver lower, tapping and guiding the graver ahead all the while.\u00a0 Follow the line, of course.\u00a0 When you begin to contort your body too much, stop, remover the graver from the cut, and reposition the pitch bowl or other holder to a more comfortable angle.\u00a0 Insert the graver back in the cut, you should be able to gently reposition it into the same place with a little finesse, and begin cutting again.\u00a0 Lather rinse, repeat as necessary.\u00a0 Simple.<\/p>\n

The general idea here is to cut a smooth line, without any jagged edges or kinks, at a constant depth and width.\u00a0 In decorative engraving you can tilt the graver to make wider and narrower cuts for artistic effect, but here we only want a consistent width and depth.\u00a0 Of course, since this kind of graver is a \u201cV\u201d shape, it\u2019s actually the depth of the cut that determines the width.\u00a0 If you are porpoising up and down in the cut, the width of your line will vary as well.\u00a0 I\u2019ve heard under proper conditions the human eye can see things as small as one ten thousandth of an inch.\u00a0 That\u2019s far smaller than your wandering and wavering line, so people will spot the problem right away.\u00a0 All I can say is practice, practice, practice, and then practice some more.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_17\"<\/a>
\nNow, I have to admit, I never use hammer and chisel in my engraving, as you can probably see from the view of my unskilled cut above.\u00a0 I have a Lindsay Palm Control pneumatic powered engraver.\u00a0 A month\u2019s experience using it is probably the equivalent of several year\u2019s experience with hammer and chisel.\u00a0 So, if you find you enjoy engraving, I would move Earth and Sky to buy one of the new pneumatic systems, and continue learning with them.\u00a0 I suspect what we are doing with hammer and chisel is going to go the way of the dinosaurs.\u00a0 And for you die hard H&C engravers out there, that\u2019s my opinion and I\u2019m not interested in debating you.\u00a0 If you feel some nobility in doing it the \u201cpurist\u201d way, have at it, but when you use your bandsaw, drillpress, angle grinder and UPS delivers your supplies to your doorstep with a truck instead of a donkey, I have to question your sense of purity.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_18\"<\/a>
\nAbove, I\u2019ve deliberately made a common mistake (having made it previously in the first cut).\u00a0 I cut too shallow starting at the red arrow on the right, causing my line to be too\u00a0narrow.\u00a0 You can correct this type of bad cut simply by going back and cutting deeper, paying more attention this time.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_18a\"<\/a>
\nHere\u2019s my theory of how gravers operate.\u00a0 The heel is the big deal here, especially the tiny straight line segment just behind the point.\u00a0 That\u2019s where the two heels converge at the bottom, leaving a tiny straight line, at an angle to the length of the graver.\u00a0 That\u2019s the \u201cMagic Segment\u201d in between the green arrows in the image above.\u00a0 An extension of this little line is the line the graver wants to travel along.\u00a0 The little spot right behind the line is the fulcrum this lever rests on. If we tilt the graver tip up while it is in the metal, pivoting on that fulcrum, the graver will start up, and if we go far enough the graver will come out of the metal.\u00a0 If we tilt it down, the graver will dive deeper.\u00a0 Deeper to a point, that is, until the graver is buried so deep you can\u2019t hit it hard enough to make it go deeper, or something breaks.\u00a0 The angle between this magic segment and the long axis of the graver is called the lift or heel angle, and if we keep the graver at that angle while in the metal, the graver should go straight and level, and make a constant width line.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_19\"
\n<\/a>So, that\u2019s it.\u00a0 Above are my two not-so-well H&C engraved lines.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_20\"
\n<\/a>Now I\u2019m going to carve out the interior steel, between the lines with carbide burs in my NSK Electer grinder.\u00a0 A Dremel will work fine as well, although a slower flexshaft machine like a Foredom won\u2019t work quite as well.\u00a0 You can see the two sizes of burs I\u2019ll use above.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_20a\"<\/a>
\nI\u2019m going to VERY carefully carve away HALF of the two lines we so painstakingly cut.\u00a0 I\u2019m not going to touch the outside part of the line, leaving us a very smooth engraved edge on the area we are going to excavate and then texture.\u00a0 You cannot make as smooth an outline using burs as you can with the graver.\u00a0 Trust me on this…
\nYou can order these carbide burs at:\u00a0 http:\/\/www.lascodiamond.com\/products\/stndcbhp.htm<\/a>\u00a0 I have no business interest or relationship with this distributor, either.<\/p>\n

I use sizes #1\/4 (5 thousandths of an inch bur diameter, the smallest available), #2 (10 thousandths bur diameter), #5 (16 thousandths bur diameter) and #8 (23 thousandths bur diameter, the largest of this style available).\u00a0 The ones you see above are the #8 and #1\/4.\u00a0 I only use round carbide burrs.<\/p>\n

If you have a good relationship with your dentist, he\/she might give you some used ones.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_21\"
\n<\/a>A word about using powered grinders here.\u00a0 There is a \u201csafe\u201d direction and a \u201cnot so safe\u201d direction.\u00a0 I\u2019m speaking about \u201csafe\u201d direction in relation to damaging your work, not your personal safety.\u00a0 You\u2019re wearing a dust mask and eye protection, right?\u00a0 In the image above, the \u201csafe\u201d direction is to the left, and the \u201cnot so safe\u201d direction is to the right.\u00a0 Carbide burs like these only cut in a clockwise direction, as viewed by the operator.\u00a0 Think of it like the powered wheels of you car – when you step on the accelerator, your wheels turn in the forward direction, gain traction and the car begins to move.\u00a0 The carbide bur works the same way.\u00a0 In the image above, the bur wants to move to the right, away from the \u201csafe\u201d direction.\u00a0 If you lose control of the bur should it suddenly gain unexpected traction, the damage will occur to the right, not the left.\u00a0 So, when we are carving very close to a line we don\u2019t want to damage, the \u201csafe\u201d way to approach the line is to keep it to the left side of the bur ( as shown above).\u00a0 In the above image, I will be carving up to the left hand line.\u00a0 When it is time to work on the right hand line, I will reverse the pitch bowl, keeping the line I want to preserve to the left of the bur.\u00a0 Be especially careful when approaching the edge of the metal; if the bur goes over the edge, you WILL experience a sudden huge gain in traction, and you WILL lose control.\u00a0 The bur will damage the edge and also whatever is over the edge.\u00a0 Approach edges or anywhere else the bur might gain additional traction from the \u201csafe\u201d direction.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_22\"<\/a>
\nAbove is the first part of the grinding.\u00a0 Note I haven\u2019t removed the outside of the engraved line, and I\u2019m left with a nice smooth looking edge.
\n
\n<\/strong>\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_23\"<\/a>
\nMore grinding, moving out more into the center.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_24\"<\/a>
\nHere I\u2019m working on the other line.\u00a0 Notice I\u2019ve rotated the pitch bowl 180 degrees so I can approach the other line from the \u201csafe\u201d direction.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_25\"<\/a>
\nThe first pass removing the interior is done and I\u2019m now starting to deepen the center.\u00a0 So far, the grinding operation has probably taken about five minutes.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_26\"<\/a>
\nThe center area deepened.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_27\"
\n<\/a>Working out from the center.\u00a0 I\u2019m trying to keep things relatively smooth, and a nice transition from deep to shallow on the edge.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_28\"
\n<\/a>I\u2019ve turned the pitch bowl around again, and I\u2019m deepening towards the blade side.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_29\"
\n<\/a>And here\u2019s the cavity completely excavated.\u00a0 Now I need to do something about the tool marks left inside the cavity.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_30\"
\n<\/a>Here\u2019s the alternative method I mentioned before.\u00a0 I have a hardened punch with a shallow curved face.\u00a0 I hardened this punch by quenching it in beeswax, I haven\u2019t tempered it, and so far it hasn\u2019t let me down by shattering.\u00a0 I suspect the beeswax quench is gentle enough that the punch doesn\u2019t get completely glass hard and shatter when used.\u00a0 Knock on wood…<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_31\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve installed the punch (it\u2019s made from 1\/8 inch diameter music wire available from most hobby shops and hardware stores) in my graver holder.\u00a0 If you recall we made the graver holder by drilling a 1\/8 inch hole in the end.\u00a0 Did you know that a 3\/32 inch square graver is 1\/8 inch from corner to corner?\u00a0 See, sometimes things do work out…<\/p>\n

Now, hold the punch firmly against the metal in the cavity, use firm taps with the hammer and begin smoothing out the tool marks left by the carbide bur.\u00a0 With a little practice, you can get pretty fast at this operation, but don\u2019t get too far ahead of yourself, bounce the punch out of the cavity and mar the uncarved part of the blade.<\/p>\n

You can play around with different curves on the punch, and textures from very smooth and polished to much more textured faces.\u00a0 You can texture the face by tapping it onto your diamond lap (use the very inside edge of the lap for this, you can\u2019t reach there with your graver during sharpening), or by tapping onto various grits of sandpaper, or files.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_32\"
\n<\/a>Here you can see the area I completed (outlined in red).\u00a0 Much smoother and more attractive than the tool marks from the carbide bur.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_33\"
\n<\/a>Here\u2019s the method I use most often – I just like it better.\u00a0 I\u2019ll use my smallest carbide bur to make a \u201cscribble\u201d texture.\u00a0 The same rules apply here concerning \u201csafe\u201d directions.<\/p>\n

This tiny bur has less danger of developing sudden, overwhelming traction, but it can happen, so be careful.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_34\"
\n<\/a>I begin the texture by making small \u201cscribbles\u201d up and down along the line on the left.\u00a0 I\u2019m still not touching the engraved outside part of the line, just coming close to it.\u00a0 Notice I\u2019m following the \u201csafe\u201d direction rule.\u00a0 Begin this process just like you learned to color in kindergarten – carefully outline inside the lines first, then proceed to color the larger interior.\u00a0 Of course if we were able to color inside the lines back then, we probably wouldn\u2019t be bladesmiths now………..<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_35\"
\n<\/a>Once I\u2019ve completed outlining the blade side, I\u2019ll do the other side, turning the pitch bowl around for proper \u201csafe\u201d direction…
\n\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_36b\"
\n<\/a>Once I\u2019ve completed outlining the blade side, I\u2019ll do the other side, turning the pitch bowl around for proper \u201csafe\u201d direction…<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_36c\"
\n<\/a>Starting to fill the interior by outlining the lower metal edge (keep in mind the \u201csafe\u201d direction to approach the edge).<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_36d\"
\n<\/a>Then begin filling in the interior.\u00a0 If you follow the scribbly lines you will see that I\u2019m deliberately wandering around, trying to keep any hint of a pattern out of the process.\u00a0 If, for instance, I started around the edges and then went into a decreasing spiral inside, this would leave a noticeable pattern and a less pleasant appearance.\u00a0 Instead, think of a drunken man staggering home aimlessly from a bar a 2 AM.<\/p>\n

Lather, rinse, repeat until you\u2019ve filled the entire excavation.
\n
\n<\/a>Here\u2019s what the finished result should look like.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_39\"
\n<\/a>Above is the finished result in bare metal (top) and cold blued (bottom).<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_42\"
\nAnd how it looks from a short distance away.<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_43\"
\n<\/a>To remove the metal from the pitch, I heat the metal up with a small flame (or heat gun) and when the pitch is soft, I jam my cruddy bench knife into the pitch below the edge of the metal and gently pry the metal up.\u00a0 Watch it, don\u2019t scratch the metal (use a piece of wood if it\u2019s something easily scratched), and the metal will be HOT.<\/p>\n

I use my cruddy not-so-sharp bench knife or a sharp wooden edge to scrape off the large globs of pitch, followed by lacquer thinner or mineral spirits to clean off the rest.<\/p>\n

May you find as much joy as I have in this long but rewarding path.\u00a0 It\u2019s not a career, it\u2019s a way of life.\u00a0 Your imagination is your only limit.
\n\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_47\"
\n<\/a>Here\u2019s a simple pattern to practice your engraving with, a skull with lots of curves, and a Running Wheat Border.\u00a0 It\u2019s designed to go on a 1 3\/8 inch by 1 inch piece of metal.\u00a0 If you print it out using a laser printer, or copy it on a copier that uses toner, you can place it face down on a piece of clean metal and transfer it by pressing a paper towel dampened (ONLY slightly damp) with either lacquer thinner, acetone or fingernail polish remover.\u00a0 Use a scribe to draw in anything that didn\u2019t transfer.\u00a0 It may take several tries to get this right…<\/p>\n

\"Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_48\"
\n<\/a>And here is what you should be working towards.\u00a0 No, I didn\u2019t cut this with hammer and chisel.\u00a0 I used my pneumatic engraver.\u00a0 Yes, I know I\u2019m cheating.\u00a0 But, I\u2019m the teacher, and I\u2019m allowed.<\/p>\n

Congratulations, your feet are now set on the path towards becoming an engraver.\u00a0 Of course, we\u2019ve only cut a few lines, but with practice, you\u2019ll realize that a complex engraving is simply a collection of engraved lines.\u00a0 As far as knifemaking is concerned, some immediately useful engraving are things like what we\u2019ve just done here with decorative transition.\u00a0 I also engrave my signature\/maker\u2019s mark on almost every knife I make, whether it\u2019s a fancy engraved one or not.\u00a0 Have a look at the Running Wheat Border – it looks great circling a guard, or along the edges of an exposed full tang.\u00a0 Here\u2019s a link to an excellent tutorial for cutting the Running Wheat Border at the Engraver\u2019s Cafe:\u00a0 http:\/\/www.igraver.com\/runningwheat\/<\/a><\/p>\n

Some Resources you might find useful:<\/b><\/p>\n

Engraving Forums: http:\/\/www.engravingforum.com<\/a> \u00a0 \u00a0 http:\/\/www.engraverscafe.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Tom\u2019s Web Site: http:\/\/www.sterlingsculptures.com\/
\n<\/a>Tom\u2019s BladeGallery Page: http:\/\/www.bladegallery.com\/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=721<\/a><\/p>\n

Best source of metal carving info on the Internet: http:\/\/followingtheironbrush.org\/
\n<\/a>High quality carving (some metalwork): http:\/\/www.thecarvingpath.net\/
\n<\/a>Outstanding Metalwork artist Ford Hallam: http:\/\/fordhallam.com\/
\n<\/a>Outstanding Metalwork artist Jim Kelso: http:\/\/www.jimkelso.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n

Lindsay Graver Sharpening Templates and Diamond Wheels: http:\/\/airgraver.com\/sharpening.htm
\n<\/a>Lap Mandrel Adapter for converting a drill press to a power hone: http:\/\/airgraver.com\/Hand_Engraving_Tools_Overview.htm
\n<\/a>Carbide Carving Burrs: http:\/\/www.lascodiamond.com\/products\/stndcbhp.htm<\/a><\/p>\n

How To Carve Steel – Wormy Wood:\u00a0 \u00a0http:\/\/forums.dfoggknives.com\/index.php?showtopic=12650&st=0&p=114619&fromsearch=1&#entry11461
\n<\/a>Kanazuchi Hammer making tutorial: http:\/\/www.thecarvingpath.net\/forum\/index.php?showtopic=915
\n<\/a>Kanazuchi Hammer Handle tutorial: http:\/\/www.thecarvingpath.net\/forum\/index.php?showtopic=920<\/a><\/p>\n

How to Make a Pitch Bowl Support Ring or Doughnut
\nhttp:\/\/followingtheironbrush.org\/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=369&p=11805
\n<\/a>Thrift store pitch bowls and Rokusho pots:\u00a0 http:\/\/followingtheironbrush.org\/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=1107<\/a><\/p>\n

Excellent tutorials on inlay, patination, Japanese art alloys, file and stone finishing: \u00a0http:\/\/www.jimkelso.com\/tutorialshub.htm<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cShirley Temple\u201d Scrapers for Contemporary Engravers: http:\/\/followingtheironbrush.org\/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1472<\/a><\/p>\n

Simple Engraving for Knifemakers:\u00a0 An Addendum<\/b><\/p>\n

Here\u2019s a little more practical example of simple engraving on an actual knife.\u00a0 This is an integral misericorde\/poniard kind of dagger thingy I\u2019m working on, 15 inches overall length of forged square cross section 1045 steel bar, with hand filed finish on the pommel and blade.<\/p>\n

\"Simple_Ricasso_Engraving_1\"
\n<\/a>As in the example above, I\u2019ve engraved two lines on each face of the diamond cross section blade.\u00a0 The white stuff you see on the blade is white permanent marker.\u00a0 This stuff dulls the shine on steel, can be drawn on with a pencil, and helps me see my laser printer transfers better.\u00a0 I\u2019ve used 4 laser printer transfers here, one for each of the four faces so they all will look exactly the same.<\/p>\n

By the way, I\u2019m doing the engraving, carving and texturing of the blade portion BEFORE heat treating the blade.\u00a0 Even though for this kind of dagger I\u2019ll only be hardening about two thirds of the blade, the rapid cooling during the quench close to the engraved\/carved area will still affect the hardness somewhat.\u00a0 I don\u2019t have a requirement to make things harder than they need to be…<\/p>\n

\"Simple_Ricasso_Engraving_4\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve used one of my medium sized carbide round burs to carefully carve down into the inner part of the engraved lines, paying attention to cutting in the \u201csafe\u201d direction and not touching the outside parts of the engraved line.<\/p>\n

\"Simple_Ricasso_Engraving_5\"
\n<\/a>Above I used a larger carbide bur to carve away the rest of the inside, and faired the carving out down to the bottom of the hollow ricasso separating the handle from the blade.<\/p>\n

\"Simple_Ricasso_Engraving_6\"
\n<\/a>Another view of the carving process.<\/p>\n

\"Simple_Ricasso_Engraving_7\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve used my smallest carbide bur to \u201cscribble\u201d texture the carved out parts.\u00a0 I\u2019ve stopped about halfway because I\u2019m going to carve something on the four little flutes to the left of the hollow ricasso, and I\u2019ll finish the texturing later.<\/p>\n

\"Simple_Ricasso_Engraving_8\"
\n<\/a>Above is the finished texturing in raw steel color.<\/p>\n

\"Simple_Ricasso_Engraving_10\"
\n<\/a>And here is the finished version after a little cold gun blue, looking more like it will when finished after heat treating.<\/p>\n

While it is beyond the scope of this tutorial, I decided to give you a look at a little more advanced engraving and carving.\u00a0 This is one of the things that you can be working towards after learning the basics.\u00a0 I\u2019m not using the simple hammer and chisel graver we used in the tutorial, I\u2019m using my pneumatic Lindsay Airgraver and stereo microscope for all of this engraving.\u00a0 Of course, with diligence and careful work, hammer and chisel engraving can accomplish the same thing.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_1\"
\n<\/a>Above is an image of the forward end of the dagger handle and a scrap piece of the 1045 square steel bar.\u00a0 I\u2019m going to carve a dragon head on each of the four little triangular pieces at the forward end of the handle, and since I\u2019m not entirely confident of the outcome, I\u2019m going to do a practice piece on the scrap rather than my hard won dagger.\u00a0 I have already done the heat treatment on the dagger, but I think the handle is far enough away from the hardened area to not cause problems.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve carefully measured the triangles of the handle and marked the scrap bar to reproduce a similar area and volume, and marked it out with a sharp pencil.\u00a0 Incidentally, the length of this area is one inch, so a pretty small carving will result.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_2\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve deeply engraved the penciled lines on the scrap bar, to closely resemble the matching area on the dagger handle.\u00a0 It has taken several passes with the graver to get this deep.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_3\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve drawn in a simple dragon\u2019s head with pencil, working hard not to overly complicate things.\u00a0 Under the stereo microscope, it\u2019s very easy to put too much detail that will be too small to see with the naked eye.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_4\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve carefully engraved all the lines<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_6\"
\n<\/a>And here\u2019s a side view.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_8\"
\n<\/a>Above is a view through the microscope.\u00a0 I\u2019ve begun carving away the area in front of the eyes, and the rear skull areas.\u00a0 I\u2019m using my smallest round ball carbide bur.\u00a0 I\u2019ve also removed the excess metal in front of the snout.\u00a0 I\u2019ll eventually use a \u201cscribble\u201d texture there, most likely.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_11\"<\/a>Above a side view under the microscope.\u00a0 More carving, and I\u2019ve excavated the nostrils.\u00a0 \u00a0 The carving process really is a continual refinement of the form, carving a little on one side, then turning and repositioning the metal in the vise to carve the corresponding part on the other side, just to keep things as symmetrical as I can.\u00a0 The old joke about carving an elephant really is what\u2019s happening here – I\u2019m simply taking away anything that doesn\u2019t look like a dragon\u2019s head.<\/p>\n

You can see that the carving is making my carefully engraved lines vanish somewhat.\u00a0 It is especially noticeable around the eyes, which I\u2019ve left standing proud of the surface.\u00a0 I will eventually go back in with a very small graver and re-cut all of the lines.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_13\"<\/a>
\nAbove, the carving using the carbide burs is finished.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_14\"
\n<\/a>Above is a view through the microscope.\u00a0 You can still see the tool marks from the tiny carving bur.\u00a0 Next I\u2019ll use a hardened steel punch in my Airgraver to cold forge (in engraving, also sometimes called sculpting or planishing) those away.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_16\"
\n<\/a>And, above, is the finished carving after forging\/sculpting\/planishing in raw steel color.
\n
\n\"Dragon_Head_Carving_18\"
\n<\/a>And, finally, finished with cold gun blue, directly from the punch.<\/p>\n

\"Dragon_Head_Carving_20\"And, above, after bluing and burnishing with a little 4\/0 steel wool.\u00a0 I like a little sheen, but not a bright polish.\u00a0 A little note here, steel wool will burnish steel without removing the patina, but in my experience will remove patina on non-ferrous alloys of copper, silver, gold, shibuichi, and nickel.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_1\"
\n<\/a>Above is the beginning of a practice helmeted viking to go on the rear ends of the dagger handle, again penciled in over white permanent marker.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_2\"
\n<\/a>Above are the engraved lines to replicate the shape on the handle.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_3\"
\n<\/a>Unlike the dragon head which was quite angular, the viking head needs a nice smooth, rounded area carved with carbide burs.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_4a\"
\n\"Viking_Head_4\"
\n<\/a>In the above two images you can see my paper laser transfer and the viking head after engraving in the lines.\u00a0 Again, since this carving is 5\/8 of an inch long, I\u2019ve kept everything pretty basic and simple.
\n\"Viking_Head_6\"
\n<\/a>Above an image through the microscope, cold gun blued to provide a better photograph.\u00a0 I\u2019ve been carving the top of the head with the small carbide bur.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_7\"
\n<\/a>More carving, excavating the face, mouth area and eyes.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_8\"
\n<\/a>And the carving with the bur is completed.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_9\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve been working on the left side of the head (the right side of your screen) with the punch in the Lindsay Airgraver.\u00a0 You can see the dramatic difference between the smoother punched surface and the tool marks on the other side left by the burs.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_11\"
\n<\/a>And, above, the same with the cold gun blue for better visualization.<\/p>\n

\"Viking_Head_12\"
\n<\/a>Above, the finished head.\u00a0 I\u2019ve also gone back and re-cut all the lines to clean them up.\u00a0 I think this will work fine on the dagger.\u00a0 Only four more viking heads and four more dragon heads to carve.\u00a0 Sigh………<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Originally produced for the Bladesmith’s Forum, August 2012: \u00a0http:\/\/www.bladesmithsforum.com\/index.php?showtopic=24166 I\u2019ve been asked to create a tutorial on simple hammer and chisel engraving, and I\u2019ve chosen to do one oriented towards knifemakers.\u00a0 But, let\u2019s get a few things straight up front, … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":291,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"spay_email":""},"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/P6qLAy-18A","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":291,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=291","url_meta":{"origin":4376,"position":0},"title":"Resources","date":"January 14, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"About Us Available for Purchase Talk to Us\/FAQ Our Art Jewelry Steel Bladed Knives Stone Bladed Knives Links Engraving Resources What do I need to start engraving? Tutorial: \u00a0Simple Engraving For Knifemakers Tutorial: Making Small Scrapers for Contemporary Engravers Bladesmithsforum.com Interview with Tom Netsuke Resources How to Carve Netsuke and\u2026","rel":"","context":"With 1 comment","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":6006,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=6006","url_meta":{"origin":4376,"position":1},"title":"Engraving a Classic Adams Trout Fly eBook","date":"September 21, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Engraving a Classic Adams Trout Fly\u00a0eBookDownload for Amazon Kindle Here, $2.99 USDDownload for Apple Books Here, $2.99 USD Engraving a Classic Adams Trout Fly is intended for experienced intermediate or advanced skill engravers. These instructions lead you step by step through creating your own hand engraved and gold inlaid Adams-style\u2026","rel":"","context":"Similar post","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/Engraving_a_Classic_Adams_Trout_Fly_Cover-scaled.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4757,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=4757","url_meta":{"origin":4376,"position":2},"title":"What Do I Need To Start Engraving?","date":"August 27, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"What Do I Need To Start Engraving? \u00a0I don't know how many times I've been asked this question. \u00a0Enough, I'd guess, that it has spurred me to add this page about such things to my blog. #1 -\u00a0Commitment: \u00a0The number one thing you need is COMMITMENT. \u00a0Successful engraving is an\u2026","rel":"","context":"Similar post","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/08\/Hammer_Chisel_Tutorial_1a.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3491,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=3491","url_meta":{"origin":4376,"position":3},"title":"Talk to Us\/FAQ","date":"October 27, 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Here\u2019s my email address if you would like to contact me (or Mary Alice):\u00a0tomtalk@comcast.net Commissions: \u00a0I turn down many commission requests. I\u2019m deeply appreciative of all the requests for my engraving I\u2019ve been receiving since showing my work on Instagram and Facebook. In the past I\u2019ve seldom taken commissions, and\u2026","rel":"","context":"With 8 comments","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/William_Henry_B12_Viperfish_102.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=2","url_meta":{"origin":4376,"position":4},"title":"Links","date":"January 14, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Web Links you might find interesting! My current sales page at \u00a0Arizona Custom Knives: http:\/\/www.arizonacustomknives.com\/tom-sterling-sterling-sculptures.aspx My past sales page at BladeGallery.com: \u00a0Tom at BladeGallery.com Follow Tom on Instagram: \u00a0http:\/\/instagram.com\/tom_sterling_hand_engraving Follow Tom on Facebook: \u00a0http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/TomSterlingHandEngraving Bladesmith's Forum, where I sometimes hang out: \u00a0Bladesmith's Forum Following the Ironbrush.org: \u00a0Following the Ironbrush.org Awesome\u2026","rel":"","context":"With 4 comments","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":5064,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?page_id=5064","url_meta":{"origin":4376,"position":5},"title":"Handprint Skull Titanium Dogtag","date":"April 20, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Handprint Skull Titanium Dogtag - 1 Available\u00a0$95 USD Ships next business day The Handprint Skull Titanium Dogtag is created by Tom Sterling through a unique technique of machining combined with hand carving and hand engraving, each method carefully chosen for it\u2019s own best effect.\u00a0 This unique fidget toy is 1.06\u00a0inches\u2026","rel":"","context":"Similar post","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Boker_Titanium_Dogtag_SpiralHandprint_Skull_B.1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4376"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4376"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4376\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4483,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4376\/revisions\/4483"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/291"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4376"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}