{"id":1990,"date":"2013-05-17T18:16:57","date_gmt":"2013-05-17T18:16:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=1990"},"modified":"2013-05-17T21:56:29","modified_gmt":"2013-05-17T21:56:29","slug":"making-a-kagamibuta-netsuke-bowl-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=1990","title":{"rendered":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

I was approached by a client to turn a replacement bowl for a lovely kagamibuta netsuke that had a cracked original ivory bowl. \u00a0In my life with netsuke, I’ve found that cracked ivory, especially kagamibuta netsuke bowls, is very common. \u00a0It’s my view that ALL ivory will eventually crack, sometimes catastrophically. \u00a0Ivory, being such a dense material, but also quite porous, moves with changes in humidity, and eventually I believe all of it will develop at least small cracks. \u00a0Now don’t let this turn you off of lovely ivory, because in most cases I’m talking about cracks occurring over many decades, and perhaps centuries.
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\n\"\"<\/a>Above is a kagamibuta netsuke of mine. \u00a0This one has a plate or lid of carved porcelain with a celadon glaze, and a deer antler bowl. \u00a0Kagamibuta means “mirror lid” in Japanese, and commonly the lid or plate was made in metal. \u00a0You can learn more about netsuke here: \u00a0http:\/\/www.netsuke.org<\/a><\/p>\n

Kagamibuta netsuke are one of the several common forms of netsuke, and came about mainly because of changes in Japanese laws that prohibited the carrying of swords. \u00a0Those metal artisans who made all of the astounding samurai sword “furnishings” suddenly needed jobs, and kagamibuta netsuke took up some of that slack.<\/p>\n

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\n<\/a>I had several choices to make this kagamibuta bowl from, and I chose naturally-shed moose antler (most deer shed their antler every year, so no animal needs to be harmed!). \u00a0Above is a cross sectional view of a nice piece of moose antler, cut through the “palm” of the antler. \u00a0 Like most deer antler, moose antler has harder outer margins surrounding less dense and porous interiors. \u00a0The main difference between antler from different deer species is how much of the outer part is hard, and how much of the interior is porous and soft, although nutrition of the animal can also play a large part in this.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Above is a cross section through the “beam” which is the round part near the animal’s head. \u00a0This part usually has much more dense material, and I’ve chosen a slice of this to turn my kagamibuta\u00a0bowl from.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Above is the slice of moose antler I’ve chosen, and I’ve used common wood glue to glue the slice to a sacrificial piece of hardwood. \u00a0You can also see the original damaged ivory bowl, the netsuke lid, and another thin slice from the same part of the antler. \u00a0I’ll use this slice for experimental trials later when I’m ready to begin coloring the bowl. \u00a0Since antler varies from piece to piece, and from area to area even on the same antler, it’s important to use an experimental piece from near the same location.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>More of a side view.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Above is the antler and sacrificial hardwood block mounted in my little Sherline metal-cutting lathe, ready to begin turning. \u00a0I’ve used a small four jaw chuck here, and worked diligently to get the center of the antler\u00a0\u00a0centered with the lathe axis.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Here I’ve begun turning the irregular antler into a perfect cylinder. \u00a0I’m “sneaking” up on the appropriate outside dimension, carefully measuring with calipers several times until I arrive at the 1.75 inch desired diameter. \u00a0Hopefully, all of the outside “skin” of the antler will be gone by then. \u00a0I’m a great fan of leaving “natural” parts of the antler skin in place, but since this a replacement part for an ivory bowl, it needs to be smooth and unmarked.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Here’s the blank cylinder at the final outside dimension. \u00a0By the way, the part where the lid\/plate will go is on the exposed end. \u00a0I now need to take a “facing” cut across the end to smooth it out and make sure the end is at perfect right angle to the cylinder. \u00a0I’ve used a “trick” to help with seeing the cutting in this blandly white material by coloring it with a pencil, making certain I cut away all of the black parts.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>And, above, is the finished and pretty smooth face of the cylinder. \u00a0Next, I have to drill an axial hole through the whole thing for the cord hole.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I was approached by a client to turn a replacement bowl for a lovely kagamibuta netsuke that had a cracked original ivory bowl. \u00a0In my life with netsuke, I’ve found that cracked ivory, especially kagamibuta netsuke bowls, is very common. … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true},"categories":[32],"tags":[17,16,34,33],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p6qLAy-w6","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":1870,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=1870","url_meta":{"origin":1990,"position":0},"title":"Floating Treasures Part 1","date":"November 1, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"In the distant past I made a bunch of pendants I called \"Floating Treasures.\" \u00a0These were loosely based upon kagamibuta style netsuke. \u00a0Kagamibuta netsuke became popular in Japan after the wearing of swords was banned, and the metal artisans who spent their lives creating the wonderful sword furniture we admire\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/kagamibuta2.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2023,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2023","url_meta":{"origin":1990,"position":1},"title":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 3","date":"May 20, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Above, I've installed the hand turning tool rest on the cross slide of the lathe, and begun establishing the outer curve of the bowl with small hand turning tools. \u00a0I repeatedly STOP the lathe and hold the original ivory bowl nearby, and sight down the edge to make sure I'm\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Netsuke"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Kagamibuta_Bowl_44.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2050,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2050","url_meta":{"origin":1990,"position":2},"title":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 4","date":"May 20, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Now it's time to color our antler kagamibuta bowl. \u00a0I'll be soaking the antler first in a hot, but relatively weak solution of potassium permanganate (KMnO4), then polishing to remove much of the color. \u00a0I'll repeat this a number of times until I'm satisfied with the color, and, in this\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Netsuke"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Kagamibuta_Bowl_86.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2005,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2005","url_meta":{"origin":1990,"position":3},"title":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 2","date":"May 18, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Above, I've drilled the proper sized hole through the antler cylinder. \u00a0The cord that connects to the lid will eventually pass through here. \u00a0Incidentally, using a metal-cutting lathe for these parts of the bowl-turning process really helps with accuracy and speed. \u00a0As you might surmise, a lathe that can cut\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Netsuke"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Kagamibuta_Bowl_25.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2090,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2090","url_meta":{"origin":1990,"position":4},"title":"Knapped Steel Petroglyph Knife","date":"May 28, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Another of my signature \"Knapped Steel\" knives. \u00a0I had so much fun playing with the antler and potassium permanganate from you kagamibuta adventure, I decided to make a knife handle. Above is the knife I \"carved\" prior to heat treatment. \u00a0I use a scan like this to design (on paper)\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Engraved Knife"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Mammoth_Stone_Knife_18.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2333,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2333","url_meta":{"origin":1990,"position":5},"title":"Engraving and Carving Antler – Orca Knife","date":"August 27, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Here\u2019s my latest knife. It\u2019s a tiny deer antler Orca done in NW Native American style. The knife is 3 3\/16 inches overall, with a 1 1\/4 inch long 1075 carbon steel through-tang blade. The antler has been aged with potassium permanganate. The handle is made from the last fork\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/08\/Orca_Knife_Group_1Web.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1990"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1990"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1990\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2082,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1990\/revisions\/2082"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1990"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1990"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1990"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}