![\"Clockwork_Trilobite_Pendant_34\"](\"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/Clockwork_Trilobite_Pendant_34.jpg\")
<\/a>\nAbove, I\u2019m using a computer printout as a pattern for the tiny gear, and drilling the starting holes.\u00a0 I used a scan of the top silver trilobite plate and carefully scaled the gear to that – the pattern isn\u2019t anything more than than a 16 gauge center hole, and 18 gauge outer holes.\u00a0 I glued the pattern on my scrap of shibuichi, and used a tiny carbide bur to make a tiny dent for centering the equally tiny drill bits, which like to wander if not center punched or drilled.\u00a0 I\u2019ve also used my dividers to mark the outer rim.<\/p>\n
, holding the work is a big problem, and you need to be creative with your work-holding solutions.\u00a0 Above, I\u2019ve pressed a tiny little hand clamp into service, and drilled a matching hole in my sawing birdsmouth.<\/p>\n Thanks for looking!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Today I need to make the last little gear, solder everything together and do the initial shaping. Above, I\u2019m using a computer printout as a pattern for the tiny gear, and drilling the starting holes.\u00a0 I used a scan of … Continue reading <\/a>
\nHere, I\u2019ve begun sawing out the gear with a 5\/0 jeweler\u2019s saw blade.\u00a0 I\u2019ve left some of the gear unsawn to provide me with a handle – one of the biggest challenges in this game is holding onto the work.\u00a0 I then continue sawing by removing the little nubs of the web to create the little gear teeth.<\/p>\n<\/a>
\nAnd, above, is the tiny gear sawn free.\u00a0 Now I have to use jeweler\u2019s files to trim everything up.<\/p>\n<\/a>
\nAs I mentioned <\/p>\n<\/a>
\nHere is the little gear in position.\u00a0 Did I mention the center hole was 16 gauge wire diameter?\u00a0 There is a little madness to my method, since I will eventually use a 16 gauge silver wire to make a rivet for my belt-and-suspenders methodology.<\/p>\n<\/a>
\nIt\u2019s finally time to solder everything together, and I can quit worrying about dropping a tiny part on the floor, to disappear into the clutter\u2026\u2026.\u00a0 Above is my soldering setup – a fiber soldering block, with a charcoal block on top of it, to keep from burning my bench.\u00a0 The funny little contraptions you see are thick copper wires with wooden bases, and I place small lead blocks on top to provide weight in selected spots while I solder.\u00a0 They work incredibly well to keep all the parts from moving during soldering.\u00a0 I think I saw them originally on the Ganoskin web site, but I\u2019m too lazy to look up the link.\u00a0 I use silver paste solder for most of my soldering needs.\u00a0 Did you know that solder becomes a lubricant when it is molten, and things will slide around easily?\u00a0 Also, when the flux starts to boil and bubble the water away during heating, the pressure generated can also make things move.\u00a0 These clever little contraptions pretty much make that a thing of the past, so whoever thought these up, they are sheer genius, and many thanks to you!<\/p>\n<\/a>
\nSo, above is the sequence of what happened after soldering, pickling, and a little more sawing.\u00a0 Notice also, I\u2019ve gone ahead and drilled most of the holes I\u2019ll be needing.\u00a0 It is MUCH easier to do that now while the bottom and top surfaces are flat and parallel.\u00a0 I might need a few more holes, but that will depend on the carving part, so I\u2019ll have to wait and fight that battle then.\u00a0 In the bottom view, I\u2019ve added a quick patina to begin getting the idea of how this bad boy will eventually look.<\/p>\n<\/a>
\nNext, I\u2019ve used my flex shaft grinder and a sanding drum to sand away the sharp corners into a a fat pumpkinseed shape.\u00a0 Then I followed up that rough sanding with a general smoothing with jeweler\u2019s files and coarse Scotchbrite\u2122 pads, and we\u2019re ready to begin the carving process.\u00a0 At last, some fun to look forward to!<\/p>\n