{"id":4151,"date":"2016-01-20T16:12:11","date_gmt":"2016-01-21T00:12:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=4151"},"modified":"2016-01-20T16:12:11","modified_gmt":"2016-01-21T00:12:11","slug":"shibuichi-longhorn-beetle-hobo-nickel-tutorial","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=4151","title":{"rendered":"Shibuichi Longhorn Beetle Hobo Nickel Tutorial"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_1\"\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_2\"<\/a> \"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_3\"
\n<\/a>Starting a new project, a Hobo Nickel with a shibuichi Japanese-style inlay of a longhorn beetle. I’ve been watching Ford Hallam (https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Ford-Hallam-Following-the-Iron-Br\u2026\/<\/a>) make his lovely metal inlays, and have been taking his advice to “steal with my eyes.” I think I’ve broken the code, so I’m trying it with this beetle inlay.<\/p>\n

Of course, I might have it all wrong, so you should take this with a grain of salt.\u00a0 Additionally, since the traditional methods I\u2019ve alluded to here are taken from the Japanese method of hammer and chisel, I\u2019ve tailored all the actions to better suit my use of pneumatic hand engraving technology.<\/p>\n

Here I’m sawing out and filing a tiny snail from a self-made plate of shibuichi (75% copper and 25% silver), about an eighth of an inch thick (3.2 mm).<\/p>\n

Here I’m sawing out and filing a tiny snail (less than half an inch long) from a self-made plate of shibuichi (75% copper and 25% silver), about an eighth of an inch thick (3.2 mm).\u00a0 This will make an almost 3D beetle in very high relief.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_4\"
\n<\/a>Above is a small sample of my favorite Japanese-style raised metal inlays by Ford Hallam, just to illustrate the wide range of exquisite work in this style being done today.\u00a0 More of his work can be seen here:\u00a0 (https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Ford-Hallam-Following-the-Iron-Br\u2026\/<\/a>)
\n
\n\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_5\"
\n<\/a>Heres a terrible image of the beetle after sawing it out with a jeweler\u2019s saw and 2\/0 blade.\u00a0 Sorry for that\u2026\u00a0 I glue a paper printout onto the sheet and just saw through the paper.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_6\"
\n<\/a>Note the tiny vise I use to hold the beetle for careful filing.\u00a0 It\u2019s a wide nose pin vise.\u00a0 This one is an antique , but almost identical modern versions are available at http:\/\/www.gesswein.com\/p-10440-pin-vise-wide-nose.aspx<\/a><\/p>\n

You can also see the two jeweler\u2019s files I used to trim up my rough sawing technique.\u00a0 I try to file so that the base of my shibuichi inlay is wider than the top surface.\u00a0 That way the inlay will tend to \u201cdovetail\u201d into the inlay pocket when I punch the pocket edges down into contact with the inlay, trapping it in place.\u00a0 This will make a completely secure mechanical connection that is unlikely to ever come apart.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_7\"
\n<\/a>One of the problems I’ve always had with this style of inlay is getting a clear and close outline of the inlay transferred to the substrate because I couldn’t hold the inlay in place and trace around it without moving.\u00a0 Here\u2019s a view of a \u201ccomplicated contraption\u201d clamp I use to hold an inlay in place on the surface of the \u201cbase\u201d metal while I scribe a very close outline.<\/p>\n

I find this far quicker and more useful than the methods I\u2019ve attempted in the past, including trying (and failing) to hold the inlay with my finger, and even super-gluing the inlay into place, scribing the outline and then releasing the glue using heat (warping the base metal and making a huge mess to clean up).\u00a0 Incidentally, this little beetle is less than half an inch long (about 12 mm)\u00a0 This clamp is held in place with a single socket cap screw in a threaded hole in the top of the vise, and rotates around that screw as well as allowing the brass nose to extend and contract in length.<\/p>\n

As a point of interest, the shibuichi beetle inlay is harder than the cupronickel base metal of the coin, hence the need to use this style of inlay.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ll also use this clamp again to hold the inlay in place in the pocket while I punch the sides of the base metal to jam the inlay into place for a permanent installation.\u00a0 The clamp will hold the inlay firmly in place, without allowing any movement, and the small size of clamp contact won\u2019t interfere much with the operation.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_8\"
\n<\/a>Another view of the clamp.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_9\"
\n<\/a>A close-up view of the clamp in action.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_10\"
\n<\/a>Here are some images of the inlay hold-down clamp I took my inspiration from, so here are some images of it. Much more elegant than my cobbled-together solution. Photos courtesy of Mike Dubber and Brian Marshall, the clamps actually designed and manufactured by Ray Letourneau.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_11\"
\n<\/a>The result of the scribing and clamp in action, a clear and close outline, in the proper place.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_12\"
\n<\/a>Here\u2019s the start of the pocket creation for the beetle inlay.\u00a0 I use a narrow flat graver (45 degree face), and simply plunge it into the base metal at about a 45 degree angle.\u00a0 My aim here is to start piling up a blob of base metal, and then using the power of the pneumatic airgraver to push the pile just beyond the edge of the outline.\u00a0 I\u2019ll repeat this all the way around the edges of the outline until I\u2019ve gone completely around.\u00a0 The tighter the curve, the narrower flat graver I use.<\/p>\n

I use a Lindsay Classic Palm Control Airgraver with the heavy tungsten piston, 60 psi air and fairly long stroke – I want nice large piles of metal around the edges.\u00a0 I\u2019ll use these piles of base metal to punch down around the edge of the inlay, jamming it permanently in place.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m not terribly familiar with GRS or Enset operation, but obviously you\u2019re going to want a high power setting.<\/p>\n

A small disclaimer here – I\u2019ve not used this method with steel yet, but I think it will work just fine.\u00a0 I anticipate a few more broken tips, however, as this is likely to be hard on narrow flat gravers\u2026<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_13\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve gone all the way around.\u00a0 Notice the individual graver marks have left a rough interior – I\u2019ll use an onglette graver to clean up the bottom edges of the cuts.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_14\"
\n<\/a>Here I\u2019m using the standard method of multiple parallel cuts to begin the excavation of the excess material from the inlay pocket.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_15\"
\n<\/a>I\u2019ve used an NSK micromotor and tiny carbide bur to excavate to the bottom of the parallel graver cuts.\u00a0 I\u2019ll repeat the parallel graver cuts and carbide bur excavation to get this pocket deep enough (about 1 mm deep) to hold the inlay securely.\u00a0 I\u2019ll also use the onglette graver to make sure the bottom edges of the inlay pocket are clean and slightly wider than the top opening.<\/p>\n

If I\u2019ve done this correctly, the shibuichi inlay will \u201cclick\u201d into place and not wobble horizontally.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_16\"
\n<\/a>Here\u2019s the shibuichi inlay almost in place.\u00a0 It doesn\u2019t quite fit in the \u201cright shoulder\u201d notch and point of the shoulder (see the red arrows).\u00a0 I\u2019ll use the flat graver as a bulldozer and push up the edges of the inlay pocket in those areas a little more until I can see a small dark line between the inlay and base metal.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_17\"
\n<\/a>Once the inlay has a good fit, I use a small block of lead and engraver\u2019s hammer to firmly seat the inlay in place (another Ford Hallam trick).\u00a0 The lead won’t mar the inlay and acts to make a solid but controlled dead blow (no bounce).<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_18\"
\n<\/a>When everything fits well, I re-install the clamp, adjust it until the position is correct, and then begin punching down the little piles of base metal around the edge of the inlay pocket.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_19\"
\n<\/a>Here\u2019s a closeup of the inlay just sitting in the pocket.\u00a0 Notice the raised edges of the nickel inlay pocket against the pinkish shibuichi inlay.\u00a0 We\u2019re ready to begin punching those raised edges down against the inlay.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_20\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve used a tiny punch to push the inlay pocket edges as close to the inlay as possible.\u00a0 I\u2019ve leaned the engraver\u2019s block to and fro to get the angle right for effective punching.<\/p>\n

My punches are made from old carbide bur shafts, with the carbide portions snapped off.\u00a0 i grind the face flat, with a very slight radius to the edges of the face to avoid marring the surface.\u00a0 The punch I\u2019ve used here looks to be a little less than a millimeter in diameter.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_21\"
\n<\/a>A closeup of the punched edges.\u00a0 The inlay is now permanently installed – to attempt to remove the inlay at this point would probably require destruction of the nickel base metal, and perhaps the shibuichi inlay as well.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_22\"
\n<\/a>Above is a quick and dirty graphic of the basic process of Japanese-style pocket inlay.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_23\"
\nAbove is the inlay installed, and the beginning of roughing in the additional details.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_24\"
\n<\/a>Here I\u2019m rounding out the beetle\u2019s body with carbide burs, although flat gravers would work as well.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_25\"
\n<\/a>Above, I\u2019ve used a tiny scraper to refine the shape of the beetle wings (the long part of the body).<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_26\"
\n<\/a>The same tool has refined the front body portions as well.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_27\"
\n<\/a>Trimming the body with a Lindsay Universal graver (116 degree V graver) and tiny carbide bur.\u00a0 Then, the body parts were smoothed with a 600 grit pencil stone.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_28\"
\n<\/a>Above, after a little burnishing with 0000 steel wool.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_29\"
\n<\/a>Starting to inlay 24 karat gold in the legs.\u00a0 The largest section of the right hind leg is two 28 gauge wires wide.\u00a0 The middle leg shows the undercut sides, with angled holes made in the bottom of the inlay trough with a simple single pointed tool – I drove them in at about 45 degrees from vertical.\u00a0 Barry Lee Hands explained the hole technique in this thread:\u00a0 http:\/\/www.engraverscafe.com\/showthread.php?19991-Barry-Lee-Hands-24k-gold-overlay-work-in-progress<\/a> \u00a0 He calls this style of teeth raising \u201clouver,\u201d or \u201carch\u201d and it works very well.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_30\"
\n<\/a>A little better view of the \u201clouvers\u201d in the inlay channels.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_31\"
\n<\/a>I doubled the gold wire over for a short distance to fill the widest parts of the legs.\u00a0 A single width of wire worked fine for the slimmer portions of the legs.\u00a0 You can still see the excess length of wire still attached.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_32\"
\n<\/a>Above, all the legs have been inlaid with gold, punched flush, and trimmed.\u00a0 I use a small scraper to scrape the excess gold from the tops of the inlays.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_33\"
\n<\/a>Above you can see the tiny cuts I make in the nickel base metal just outside the gold inlay (see the right rear leg).\u00a0 This step really finishes off the gold inlay and refines the visual appeal.\u00a0 Compare the right rear leg with the right middle leg just above, and see how much more refined the right rear leg appears.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_34\"<\/a>\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_35\"
\n<\/a>All of the gold inlays outlined with tiny cuts.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_36\"
\n<\/a>Above <\/p>\n

buy levitra uk online<\/a><\/div>\n

, I\u2019ve begun making a raised inlaid ant in 24 karat gold.\u00a0 Here I\u2019ve excavated the tiny ant pockets in the usual manner, undercutting the edges with a tiny flat graver and raising \u201clouvers\u201d in the inlay bottom.\u00a0 Then, I melted tiny balls on the end of my standard 28 gauge gold wire, altering the sizes of the melt balls as needed.\u00a0 Using a flat-faced brass punch, I\u2019ve tacked the balls into place, then begun shaping them into the appropriate ant body parts, making certain to securely punch down the edges into the undercuts.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_37\"
\n<\/a>Above, you can see the rough shapes established with the small brass flat-faced punch.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_38\"
\n<\/a>Here, I\u2019ve used a small shaped female punches to further refine the shape of the three body parts.\u00a0 For more about making punches like my \u201cant punches,\u201d visit this link:\u00a0 http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=1417<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_39\"
\n<\/a>Above I\u2019ve used a tiny square graver to trim away the excess gold, and further refine the shapes.\u00a0 I\u2019ve also gone over the surface with a tiny flat faced steel punch (made from a tiny worn out carbide bur).<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_40\"
\n<\/a>I\u2019ve inlaid the legs, but this time I did not punch the gold flush with surface, but left it fairly thick.\u00a0 I might add these legs are quite tiny and narrow, so 28 gauge gold wire is pretty excessive for the size.\u00a0 That leaves a pretty thick and wide layer of gold above the surface.\u00a0 Using my tiny square graver I trimmed the excess gold away, leaving slightly raised inlays.\u00a0 The ant is 3\/16ths of an inch long (4.75 mm).<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_41\"<\/a>\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_42\"
\n<\/a>Here is an overview of where we are now, all the inlays are in and we are ready to do some background removal and texturing, followed by some stippling.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_43\"
\n<\/a>Above, the background has been removed around the beetle to create raised legs, and stippled to darken the shadow areas near the beetle and around the legs.<\/p>\n

Also, I\u2019ve stippled around the ant, and carved a hole for the ant.<\/p>\n

\"Shibuichi_Longhorn_Beetle_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_44\"
\n<\/a>And with the addition of patina (I use Birchwood Casey Super Blue) and a good inking, the\u00a0Shibuichi Longhorn Beetle Hobo Nickel is finished!
\n<\/a>
\nThanks for Looking!
\n<\/b><\/p>\n

Tom Sterling
\n<\/b><\/p>\n

http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/TomSterlingHandEngraving#
\n<\/a>http:\/\/instagram.com\/tom_sterling_hand_engraving<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Starting a new project, a Hobo Nickel with a shibuichi Japanese-style inlay of a longhorn beetle. I’ve been watching Ford Hallam (https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Ford-Hallam-Following-the-Iron-Br\u2026\/) make his lovely metal inlays, and have been taking his advice to “steal with my eyes.” I think … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true},"categories":[23,43],"tags":[9,3,7,45,10,26],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p6qLAy-14X","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":4129,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=4129","url_meta":{"origin":4151,"position":0},"title":"Inlaid Shibuichi “Slimy Snail” Hobo Nickel Tutorial","date":"January 3, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"Starting a new project, a Hobo Nickel with a shibuichi Japanese-style snail inlay. I've been watching Ford Hallam (https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Ford-Hallam-Following-the-Iron-Br\u2026\/) make his lovely metal inlays, and have been taking his advice to \"steal with my eyes.\" \u00a0I think I've broken the code, so I'm trying it with this snail. \u00a0I'll discuss\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/Shibuichi_Snail_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":5565,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=5565","url_meta":{"origin":4151,"position":1},"title":"Dragonfly Hobo Nickel Tutorial","date":"May 29, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"I need a little timeout from the hummingbird skull reliquary puttygen.in , so here\u2019s the start of a fun Hobo Nickel with a gold dragonfly. I\u2019m leveling out Jefferson\u2019s head with a punch and abrasive stones, and beginning the engraving. Inlaying a 24 karat gold dragonfly in a Hobo Nickel.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Hand Engraving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/TomSterling_Dragonfly_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_7.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":3636,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=3636","url_meta":{"origin":4151,"position":2},"title":"Skull and Centipede Hobo Nickel","date":"November 17, 2014","format":false,"excerpt":"Back to engraving with a Hobo Nickel project, just for me. This is my first solo Hobo Nickel, with\u00a024 karat gold centipede legs, moose antler zombie eye. Here\u2019s my design transferred onto a 1937 buffalo nickel. Don\u2019t know what a Hobo Nickel is? \u00a0Try hobonickels.org Above is the design engraved,\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Skull_Centipede_Hobo_Nickel_16.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4775,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=4775","url_meta":{"origin":4151,"position":3},"title":"Koi and Waves Hobo HalfDollar Tutorial","date":"September 7, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"How about a Koi-themed Hobo Nickel (OK, it's actually a silver half dollar)? Above, I\u2019ve begun the coin carving by transferring my pattern to the face of the half dollar, and then using a V-graver to cut in all the lines. Some folks like to remove the head or figure\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Koi_and_Waves_Hobo_HalfDollar_15.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":5101,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=5101","url_meta":{"origin":4151,"position":4},"title":"Combined CNC and Hand Engraving on a Hobo Silver Dollar with Handprint Skull","date":"June 10, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"After a few successes with wood Pharmacie Montignac Dordogne Pharmacie de la V\u00c3\u00a9z\u00c3\u00a8re , moose antler and brass it\u2019s time for something a little more challenging. There have been a few technical glitches and broken end mills along the way, but I\u2019m confident enough I\u2019ll risk a $20 silver dollar\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Silver_Dollar_Handprint_Skull_Tutorial_17-1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4663,"url":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=4663","url_meta":{"origin":4151,"position":5},"title":"Yellow Jacket Hobo Nickel Tutorial","date":"July 21, 2016","format":false,"excerpt":"The gold inlaid wasp I added to a recent knife I engraved for William Henry Studios turned out so splendidly I had to do a Hobo Nickel with the same theme. Above, I\u2019ve taken a 1930 Buffalo nickel and transferred a scaled yellow jacket design to it. I begin the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i2.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/07\/Yellow_Jacket_Hobo_Nickel_Tutorial_0.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4151"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4151"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4151\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4252,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4151\/revisions\/4252"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4151"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4151"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4151"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}