{"id":2005,"date":"2013-05-18T16:35:58","date_gmt":"2013-05-18T16:35:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2005"},"modified":"2013-05-18T16:35:58","modified_gmt":"2013-05-18T16:35:58","slug":"making-a-kagamibuta-netsuke-bowl-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2005","title":{"rendered":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"
\n<\/a>Above, I’ve drilled the proper sized hole through the antler cylinder. \u00a0The cord that connects to the lid will eventually pass through here. \u00a0Incidentally, using a metal-cutting lathe for these parts of the bowl-turning process really helps with accuracy and speed. \u00a0As you might surmise, a lathe that can cut steel cuts through wood or antler like butter.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>Now I’m ready to cut the recess in the top of the bowl that the plate will fit in, leaving a little flat shelf so it will lay nicely. \u00a0I’m using a carbide boring bar to carefully bore this recess, being VERY careful to measure both the proper width as well as the proper depth. \u00a0It’s easy to cut a little more if necessary, but what you remove can’t be put back. \u00a0With that in mind, by the way, I cut a little more antler than I really have to have, so I could make a mistake here, cut it away, and start again. \u00a0I try to live by the principle of “Graceful Degradation.”<\/p>\n

Also, I’ve found antler to be very abrasive, so carbide cutting tools are a great help if possible.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>Above is the finished recess for the lid.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>Now I need to remove as much waste material from inside the bowl as I can. \u00a0I’ve carefully measured the original ivory bowl, and marked (with a felt tip marker) the depth I need to cut the hollow interior to. \u00a0I’m being careful to remove as much waste as possible, but leaving enough material for the final turning. \u00a0Remember that the bottom (and interior) of the bowl is rounded, so take that into consideration!<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>Above is an end view before interior waste removal.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>The same view, with my nice little depth measuring tool. \u00a0I don’t remember where I picked this up, and there isn’t a brand label\u00a0on it, but it is VERY useful.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>Here is how it all looks with the waste removed.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>The original kagamibuta bowl and lid.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>The lid test fit into the replacement antler bowl cylinder. \u00a0Just right!<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>Above, I’ve installed my parting tool onto the lathe cross slide. \u00a0I’m going to partially cut a groove into the antler cylinder, marking the bottom of the bowl and providing a little free space for my hand turning tools later. \u00a0I’ve marked the cut with a pencil, using my handy little depth measuring tool.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/a>And an end view of the same.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Above, the groove cut, leaving about 5\/8ths of an inch in the center. \u00a0Don’t cut too far in and weaken the cylinder or you may get vibration and not get smooth surfaces.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Above, I’ve drilled the proper sized hole through the antler cylinder. \u00a0The cord that connects to the lid will eventually pass through here. \u00a0Incidentally, using a metal-cutting lathe for these parts of the bowl-turning process really helps with accuracy and … Continue reading →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true},"categories":[32],"tags":[17,16,34,33],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p6qLAy-wl","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":1990,"url":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=1990","url_meta":{"origin":2005,"position":0},"title":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 1","date":"May 17, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"I was approached by a client to turn a replacement bowl for a lovely kagamibuta netsuke that had a cracked original ivory bowl. \u00a0In my life with netsuke, I've found that cracked ivory, especially kagamibuta netsuke bowls, is very common. \u00a0It's my view that ALL ivory will eventually crack, sometimes\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Netsuke"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Kagamibuta_Bowl_1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2023,"url":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2023","url_meta":{"origin":2005,"position":1},"title":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 3","date":"May 20, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Above, I've installed the hand turning tool rest on the cross slide of the lathe, and begun establishing the outer curve of the bowl with small hand turning tools. \u00a0I repeatedly STOP the lathe and hold the original ivory bowl nearby, and sight down the edge to make sure I'm\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Netsuke"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Kagamibuta_Bowl_26.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":819,"url":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=819","url_meta":{"origin":2005,"position":2},"title":"Burl Noggin part 2","date":"January 20, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Well, since I made the fancy Gentleman's Noggin, I now need a high-end chunky button to go along with it. \u00a0These chunky buttons were designed to allow someone to hang the noggin from their belt, but still be handy to take it off for use. \u00a0It struck me that this\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/Antler_Crown_NW_Frog_1-300x210.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":2050,"url":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=2050","url_meta":{"origin":2005,"position":3},"title":"Making a Kagamibuta Netsuke Bowl Part 4","date":"May 20, 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"Now it's time to color our antler kagamibuta bowl. \u00a0I'll be soaking the antler first in a hot, but relatively weak solution of potassium permanganate (KMnO4), then polishing to remove much of the color. \u00a0I'll repeat this a number of times until I'm satisfied with the color, and, in this\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Netsuke"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Kagamibuta_Bowl_45.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":5433,"url":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=5433","url_meta":{"origin":2005,"position":4},"title":"Skull and Dead Eye Tavern Ring Tutorial","date":"August 5, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Starting a new tellurium copper Tavern Ring, this time a single large skull, with a few surprises yet to come. Stay tuned\u2026 Tellurium copper machines and carves more like brass than copper. Pure copper is really gummy, but tellurium copper is great! PS - don't confuse tellurium copper with beryllium\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/TomSterling_Tavern_Ring_Skull_Dead_Eye_1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":1870,"url":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/?p=1870","url_meta":{"origin":2005,"position":5},"title":"Floating Treasures Part 1","date":"November 1, 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"In the distant past I made a bunch of pendants I called \"Floating Treasures.\" \u00a0These were loosely based upon kagamibuta style netsuke. \u00a0Kagamibuta netsuke became popular in Japan after the wearing of swords was banned, and the metal artisans who spent their lives creating the wonderful sword furniture we admire\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Carving"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/11\/kagamibuta1.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2005"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2005"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2005\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2085,"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2005\/revisions\/2085"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2005"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2005"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sterlingsculptures.com\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2005"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}