Dried Sardine Scalpel and Reliquary – Part 5

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Above, I’ve transferred my detailed pattern to the sardines on the lid, ready to begin detailing.

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I’ve begun detailing by engraving the eye, gill and fin details just like on the shibuichi scalpel scales.

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Continuing with the detailing by using a flat graver to lower the areas behind the engraved gills, and around the fins.

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Above, I’m using a small scraper to remove some of the tool marks left by my NSK micromotor grinder and carbide burs.  It is a metal scraper, the idea for which I stole from Clive Hallam (a famous netsuke carver).  You can see the start of his instructions for how to make one here:  Netsuke Knife Making Tutorial Part 1

And here is a link to a tutorial by me about pretty much the same thing, but from an engraving and metalwork viewpoint:  Clive’s “Shirley Temple” Scrapers for Contemporary Engravers

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Above, I’ve used the same little circular punch I used on the shibuichi scales to texture the head area of the top sardine.  That looks a little bland to me, so I’ll add in the muscle striations you would see on a cooked and canned sardine.

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Since these sardines aren’t dried, I’ve decided to use a little different method to delineate the muscle striations.  I used a round graver to carve in long depressions between the muscles (see the top sardine).

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Above, I used the circular punch to retexture the area.  Much better!

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The rest of the sardines carved with the round graver.

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And here they all are with their finished texture, and the fins detailed with the same round graver.  I’ve also trimmed a little here and there with files and abrasive ScotchBrite™ pads.

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Now it’s time to solder on the silver lid and rolled up key.  You can see my cobbled together soldering rig above.  I’ve used a ceramic fiber soldering pad

, a piece of firebrick, and a charcoal block to lift the steel top up so I can get the torch flame underneath it.  I’ve also pressed into service my little copper and lead soldering hold downs.  I’m using low temp (400 degree F) silver-bearing paste solder for this task, since it will be difficult to get this much metal up to silver soldering temperatures.

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And, here’s the soldering finished.  Notice the faint oxidation colors on the stainless steel fish.  Now, I need to clean all this up.  I can’t use my normal pickling method, since the iron will cause an electrochemical reaction and plate everything with copper.  I’ll just use mechanical methods for the clean up.

Thanks for Looking!

 

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