William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 12

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Above, I’ve been adding inlaid gold to the centipede legs.  The leg at the left is finished, and I’ve just used a brass punch to set the gold in the right leg.

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Above, you can still see a little waste gold hanging off the right side where I used the brass punch against the sharp steel top edge of the inlay cut as a shear to remove the excess.  Also, on the third leg from the left, you can see where I used a V graver to cut the top surface of the leg, followed by a flat graver driven in at the bottoms of the cut at right angles to the length of the cut.  This provides a gap on both sides at the bottom of the V cut for the soft gold to flow into and be trapped into place.

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Above is after three and a half hours of work – almost done, but I’m tired and going further will increase the chances of a mistake dramatically, so that’s enough for today.

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And here is the whole Side B scale.  So close!  Have you noticed the tiny jumping spider at 1 o’clock?  My girls badgered me into putting that in, claiming it needed something in that area…never question your Better Half and her accompanying fan club…………….

Thanks for looking!

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 10

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Above, I’ve completed most of the bark, save for a small area where I might place a tiny spider – I’ll look at it while in front of the TV tonight, and decide if it is an enhancement, or just an addition. Just like the bark on the front, I’ve used two sizes of carbide burs, followed by selective use of a square graver, and then followed by a large punch.

Thanks for looking!

 

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 9

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Today is all about sculpting and detailing the centipede.  More work with a flat graver, followed sculpting with a small flat faced punch (with a slightly radius on the face).  Above, you can see the results of about two hours of sculpting.

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Here’s the same thing, but with a quick patina added.  Much improved, don’t you think?

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I want the centipede body to really stand out as very dark, something not easily done in stainless steel.   I’ve carefully stippled each body segment with a small carbide round, sharpened to a short taper on a diamond lap.

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And, above, an overall view of about three hours of work today.

Thanks for looking!

 

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 8

Side B has been calling to me for a while now, so it’s time to knuckle under and get started…  This will be mostly bark with a sneaky centipede partially hidden underneath.  I vividly remember seeing one of these bad boys as a young child in Texas, when I was perhaps 5 or 6.  Black body and startlingly yellow legs, it seemed like it was a foot long and struck me as being “powerful.”  Bugs aren’t something you would normally think of as powerful.  Stingers, biters, scratchers, yes, but not as having power.  But this thing was angry, not happy being held down with a stick across its’ middle, and it seemed to be winning the fight.


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Here, I’ve simply engraved all of my layout lines quite deeply with a Lindsay Detailing (96 degree) graver.  I’ve also reserved a space for a possible use later, and marked where two cavities are located on the underside.  I don’t want to carve into those.

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Above, I’ve used two sizes of carbide burs (small and tiny) to excavate around the centipede to the desired depth.  Quite deep against the centipede’s body, tapering to almost zero depth at the lower edge of the scale.

I’ve used flat gravers to begin carving the slightly rounded body where it disappears under the bark, and where the legs disappear under the body.  I’ve also used tiny flats to cut around the base of the legs and the tree surface.  Did you know that an onglette with a flat heel on the bottom makes a pretty strong, yet tiny flat graver?  Try it…

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And, above, a more magnified view.  Lots more carving and rounding of the body and further sculpting with a punch tomorrow.

Thanks for looking!

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Inlay Hold Down Clamp

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It all began with this William Henry knife scale and the shibuichi beetle body pocket inlay.  I had trouble holding the shibuichi beetle in place while I carefully and closely scribed around the base to begin cutting the inlay pocket. I managed to get around that problem with a little superglue, but that made a small cleanup problem and didn’t solve my 2nd problem of holding the inlay in place in the pocket while I punched around the edges to lock the beetle body into place.

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I had seen the above image on The Engraver’s Cafe forum sometime in the distant past, so my dim memory of the hold down fixture which would provide a good, solid hold but not be too much in the way while trying to work around the edges.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to locate it again (above, recently found and provided by a fellow forumite), so I had to come up with my own version.  I’ve tried c-clamps before, but between the twisting and clumsy construction, they were almost impossible to work – and they are so poorly made they just don’t work well.


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So, here’s my version (from memory) and adapted to the materials and tools I had on hand.

Oh, by the way, don’t read too much into this highly staged scene. The inlay is just a stooge for purposes of illustration…

The clamp is held on to the jaw of the engraving block with a single screw, so the clamp can be rotated horizontally. So, three degrees of freedom, vertical rotation with the pivot and pressure assembly, horizontal rotation by loosening the single hold down screw, and in/out movement by lengthening the gooseneck hold down.

The strange shape of the clamp base is simply an artifact from a Boeing Surplus aircraft aluminum bar, as is the large hole on the upright portion. You really only need a thick “L” shape for the base.

The pivot and pressure assembly is just a rectangle of stainless steel. The hold down gooseneck is just 1/4 inch diameter brass, forged to a small taper. This gooseneck slides in and out about an inch for greater reach, and is locked in place by the socket head cap screw on the front. The long screw in the back raises and lowers the pivot and pressure assembly, and can generate a surprising amount of pressure. When tight, I can’t move the inlay by hand on the surface of the knife scale.

All the screws are 10-32 socket cap screws, so I only need one allen wrench.

Anyway, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!

Tom

PS It has occurred to me that making a second pivot and pressure assembly, along with a longer pivot screw, would allow me to gang two goosenecks together for longer inlays….

Thanks for looking!

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 7

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Well, here’s Side A finished, following some gold inlay for spots on the beetle.  Now it’s on to Side B.  No rest for the wicked!

Thanks for looking!

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 6

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Here’s where we left off (above).  Today is inlaying the gold into the antennae, and completing the bark around the antennae.


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Above, in this view through the microscope, I’ve used a Lindsay Detailing Graver (96 degree V) to cut the distinctive jointed antennae of longhorn beetles, almost like little half dumbbells linked end to end.  In the left half of the image, I’ve used a really small flat graver to cut a tiny undercut groove at the bottom of the engraved antenna cuts – I do this by simply driving the graver at about a 45 degree angle to the surface straight into the metal, move along a little less than the width of the graver, and do it again and again.  In the above image, I’ve only done this along the top edge, but eventually will work all the way around on both sides.  This undercut will provide a space that the annealed and quite soft 24 karat gold wire will flow into, trapping the gold.  This undercutting also raises the upper surface of the steel, creating little walls like the piles of dirt along the edge of a freshly dug ditch.  I watch for these little “raisings” as I’m cutting the undercuts so I know I’ve made them deep enough.

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Above, I’m using a small brass punch to drive the gold wire into place.  I’ve gently textured the face of the brass punch by tapping it into a 600 grit diamond lap, so it really grips the gold and helps squash it into place.  While taking this picture, I was able to completely rely on the short portion of gold driven into place to keep the rest of the gold wire from falling off the vise.

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Here’s an overall image what has happened so far.  I’ve done a little extra work with the brass punch, making certain the gold is seated well, and hammering the excess into gold leaf.  This really thin gold is easy to fold up along it’s edge and use a sharp blade to cut it off, being certain to reclaim the waste gold.

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I now need to scrape off the remaining excess gold (there’s not much at this point) and lower those raised steel edges as well.  I’ve decided to use a tiny scraper I made from hardened piano wire (you can see it in the above image).  These scrapers are much like Japanese “hisage” scrapers used for hundreds of years in their classic metalwork, and they are really growing on me!

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Above, both the gold and the surrounding steel has been leveled, but most gold inlays need more contrast than what we have here.

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So, above I’ve used a tiny v graver to cut very small lines in the steel (NOT the gold) along the edges, and then cut across to form the joints of the antenna.  A lot better contrast, don’t you think?

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And, above, two views showing those tiny cuts from several different viewpoints.

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Above, I couldn’t resist a quick inking to see how they will eventually look – providing cuts for the ink to settle into is the actual reason for the outlines.  Looking good, so now I have to carve the bark and trim up the antennae.

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And, here above, two views of the finished antennae and bark.  I’m pleased!

Thanks for looking!

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 5

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Today is all about carving the bark.  Above, I’ve begun by using a small carbide bur to begin adding vertical development to my so far very flat bark.  Since the stainless steel scales aren’t terribly thick, I’ve chosen to cut away the top side and left side of each bark element (top and left seen as the image is oriented here).  That will leave the bottom edge and the right side at the original surface level.

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Above, I’ve come back with a smaller carbide bur and carved the top and left edges a bit deeper, and better defined the edges.  I want them to be fairly vertical.

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Above, I followed up the tiny carbide bur with a much larger one.  I’ve done this to eliminate the tiny “scribbled” texture the tiny bur leaves.  The top image is unpatinated, and the lower image has had a quick patina added.  Notice how the patination really cuts the shine, and improves the appearance immensely.  It’s actually starting to look like bark now.

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Of course, most tree bark has deep cracks separating the “elements.”  Above, I’ve come back with a Lindsay Detailing graver (96 degree V), followed by a small onglette to cut those deep lines.

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The bark still looks too “defined” and sharp.  So, above, I’ve used a large and slightly rounded punch to “beat the bark into submission.”  You can see the face of the punch in the image.  I’ve also textured the face of the punch by hammering it lightly into a 600 grit diamond lap.  This grips the stainless steel better, causing it to move more efficiently, and leaves behind a nice, dull surface.  I’ve also concentrated on the edges of the bark elements to slightly round them over, and lower the very flat bottom and right edges in spots.

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Above, this is a far as I’ll go today.  The two large areas with the original surface will end up as bark eventually, but I need to inlay the beetle antennae in gold first, followed by carving away the bark up to the edge of the gold inlays.

Thanks for looking!

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 4

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Today, I carved the rotten wood at the back end of the scale.  Above, you can see the basic carving with small carbide burs.  The only direct engraving I’ve done at this point are the original cuts I made at the start, establishing an indelible pattern.

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Above is the finished wood and knothole, both in the plain steel from the gravers and burs (top image) and after using my super-secret stainless steel patination process (Jax Silver Blackener, followed by Birchwood Casey Super Blue).

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But, I’m not completely pleased with the rotting wood yet.  In the top image above, I’ve circled the area that I don’t like.  It just seems a little overworked, and the bottom edge looks more like a copy of the top edge.  In the image below, I’ve gone back and fixed that!  Much improved.

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So, that’s enough for today.  Above, you can see where I got to, completing the right side of the beetle legs, and carving the rotten wood at the rear.

Thanks for looking!

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William Henry “Engraved Longhorn Beetle Knife” Part 3

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Time to begin carving the beetle.  I started by engraving parallel cuts between the legs, leaving a little metal at the edge of the inlay pocket.  I don’t want to cut into the pocket and weaken the grip on the shibuichi.

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Above, I used carbide burs to cut down to the bottom of the parallel cuts, followed by a punch (between the blue arrows) to further drive the raised metal down and in to the inlay pocket.  Since I wasn’t certain how this might work out, I worked on a single small section – part of my policy of Graceful Degradation.  However, luck was with me and the technique worked flawlessly!

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Above, I’ve continued the series of parallel engraved cuts all around the shibuichi beetle body, leaving the narrow ridge of steel all the way around the edge of the inlay pocket.

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Above, I’ve cut away the waste steel surface around the legs with carbide burs, and used the punch to drive the ridge further down into the shibuichi and inlay pocket along the left side.  I’ve used a tiny flat graver to further refine the edges of the legs and the surrounding steel surface – you can see the little “roadlike” tracks left by the flat graver.  I’ll use a tiny carbide bur to disguise the smooth “road,” followed by a tiny onglette graver to cut a small groove at the base of each leg and steel surface, and then use the punch to gently sculpt the upper surfaces of the legs. The sculpting will take the legs from tiny, blocky/square ridges to rounded and elegantly curved surfaces.  All the boy beetles will sit up and take notice when she slinks by…..

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I’ve tried another experiment, and stippled the left side of the steel surface around the beetle body and legs to darken the area like a shadow, and added a quick patina.  I couldn’t resist seeing how it will turn out down the road!

Thanks for looking!

 

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