Ants Miseretto part 6 – Ant Punches

A while back I was playing around making some punches and came up with the idea of ants.  The first ones are those shown outlined in red, in intaglio style – I think that’s the proper term, they are sunk completely into the surface?  Then, I came up with the idea of using those first “positive” image punches to create a second set of punches with a “negative” image – hence the ants shown outside the red. I like the second set of ants a lot better.  The ant outlined in yellow is engraved, not punched.  I’ve used ants in my work before, pyrographed (burned) on wood knife handles.

This practice piece is the remains of a thick copper bar.  It’s just under 4 inches long (98mm for you metric folks). The punches I made from 1080 carbon steel, hardened and tempered. There are three punches, a teardrop shaped one for the abdomen, and two round ones, a small one for the center two dots, and a larger for the head. You can see the shapes of the punches in the copper. I used a tiny chisel for the legs, made similar to the punches. The chisel cuts copper pretty fast, so just use a couple light hammer taps. I used some gun blue I had on hand to darken the copper, then buffed off most from the surface.

To make the “negative” punches, I heated the punch blank tip to bright orange and used the corresponding “positive” punch to punch down into the hot metal, leaving a dent like the ant shapes. Then filed and ground to the edges of the dent, leaving a sharp edge. Heat, quench, temper (425 degrees F for one hour) and then used to make the ants.

These punches will work fine for most non-ferrous metals (NOT titanium!), but I don’t think they are tough enough for steel. You would have to drive them into steel pretty hard to get enough depth – I’m not willing to risk my new toys to find out.

I plan to use these previously made punches for the gold inlaid ants on the miseretto, however, the center portion of the ants above leaves much to be desired.  To correct the problem with using a small “dot” punch twice, I’m going to make a new one that will match how real ants look.


Above is a real carpenter ant, note that the center section is a narrow teardrop shape, not two little round dots.


To start, I scrounged up a small sliver of 1080 carbon steel leftover from my knifemaking, and lightly forged it into shape, above.  This piece is about 3.25 inches long and 3/16 inch square.  I’d like it about an inch longer, but it is what it is.


I engraved the shape of the ant middle section into the end of the bar, and used my NSK micromotor grinder (under my microscope) and my smallest carbide ball shaped burr to carve the angular engraved cuts more rounded.  Then, using larger burrs, I carved the outside down to the edges of the interior cuts, as seen above.


Here’s a picture taken through the microscope, sorry for the lousy focus, I had to hand hold the camera…  You can see the edges are fairly sharp, and the interior is dished into the surface.


Here’s a side view of the punch – I relieved the sides back a bit more from the previous images.  If you look at the lead block surface above the punch, you can see a test ant I stamped using two of the old punches and the new center section punch.  I use soft lead here,  because the punch hasn’t been hardened and would probably be damaged using it in harder non-ferrous metals.  I’m happy with how it works.  Note how you can make the ants a little more expressive by arranging the body parts in a curve, rather than a straight line.


Here, I’m heating the the end of the punch to critical temperature (an orange color for 1080 steel).  I used a magnet to determine when critical temperature was been reached, because the steel becomes non-magnetic at critical temp.


Above, I quenched the  red hot steel in a small catfood can of beeswax.  This will harden the steel punch, and, according to engraver tradition, is a slow enough quench to remove some of the glass-brittle hardness that normally comes from quenching carbon steel.  We’ll see…


Here, I’ve attempted to take a picture of the business ends of the various punches (sorry for the terrible image).  The two on the left are the “positive” punches I discussed earlier, and used to make the negative shaped dimples in the end of red hot punches.   The one in the center is a small sharp chisel used to cut the legs, and the three on the right are the negative image punches I’ll be using for my gold inlaid ants.  The new punch is the middle of the three on the right.


Here they are viewed from the side, in the same order as above.


And here they are again, along with my three favorite hammers for this type of work.


And, above, here is the reason for all this madness.  This is my first inlaid 24 karat gold ant, here done on a practice “hobo nickel.”  The two little dots used for the middle of the ant prompted me to make the new punch (along with a bit of nagging from my girls…)

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Ants Miseretto part 5


Not much happening here, but the blade has soaked in vinegar all night to dissolve the scale created during the blade forging and hot rolling during the creation of the original steel bar.


And, above, the blade after using a ScotchBrite™ abrasive pad to remove the dark oxide left from the vinegar soak.  Nice and shiny steel.  Note the texture left by the etching action of the vinegar on the cutting part of the blade (the top section of the image).  I rather like this, so I think I will leave the steel this way instead of using increasingly fine grits of sandpaper to smooth and polish the surface.


And, here is the blade after cold bluing and burnishing with extra-fine steel wool.  Ready to cut and fit the shibuichi handle scales now.  Still a long ways to go yet.  Did I mention this is a pretty major project, and quite cutting edge for my skills…?

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Ants Miseretto part 4


OK, back to work – I’ve decided the area between the blue arrows (above) needs something to formalize the transition between the handle and the blade.

I’ll address the area by using a small sanding drum in my Foredom flex shaft grinder and add a waist on the top and bottom, then texture the entire area, top, bottom and sides.


In the first image above, I’ve marked where I’m gong to engrave lines to mark a smooth demarcation between the textured area and the smooth part of the blade.  Below that I have engraved the lines, and the bottom is just an enlargement of the cuts.  I will cut away half of those lines, leaving the edges to the left untouched (I hope…).


Above is the knife in my engraver’s vise with my Lindsay Palm Control Airgraver I used for engraving the lines.


Here I’ve begun carving away the surface at the blue arrow (leaving the blade-side half of the line untouched).  I’m using my NSK micromotor grinder and the large carbide burr you see to the right.


Above, I’ve begun making my “scribble” texture.  I start by outlining the edges and corners (leaving half of the engraved lines intact) with a scribbled texture using the smallest of the three burrs I’ve been using for the carving.  Then I gradually fill the interior with the scribbled texture.  In this image, I’ve completed the area at the top, as well as all of the outlines.


Here are all of the surfaces with their completed scribble textures, including the sides of the waist.  I also engraved my signature in a small reserve on one side.  I have to add my signature now before heat treating the blade, because this area will be far to hard to engrave after the blade is hardened.

Above, I’ve cold blued the blade prior to heat treating, mainly to see what it will look like when finished.

I’ll also add a coating of boric acid to the areas to be hardened to keep oxygen away from the steel while heating the blade prior to hardening.  The boric acid will melt and form a kind of glass covering.  Oxygen at those high temperatures (we’re talking glowing hot!) will burn carbon out of the blade, called decarburation, and reduce the ability to harden the steel, especially in the thin areas like the cutting edges.

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Ants Miseretto part 3

Continuing on with the miseretto by grinding and filing.


Above, I have begun grinding the flats on the blade.  It will be a thick diamond cross section, since the misericordia and stilettos were originally designed as a stabbing weapons rather than a cutting-type of knives.  I’m just going to establish the basic shape with the belt grinder, and then refine the shape more gently with files.  This works best for me, since my grinding skills are limited, and my favorite 36 grit belt makes for quick work, but it will ruin the shape just as quickly…

Above, with the magic of computer image editing and after the rough grinding the blade diamond cross section, are two views of the miseretto, one with the pattern rubber cemented on.  Right now, it looks more like a screwdriver rather than a sleek, graceful dagger…

Here, I’ve taken the miseretto to the angle grinder, and carefully roughed in the blade profile.  Finally it’s starting to look like a dagger!


The steel I’m using is pretty thick (3/16 of an inch), and since I’m also going to add shibuichi scales, this will end up a pretty beefy dagger.  I’ll attenuate this problem a bit by removing metal from the inside of the handle.  I begin by carving a dimple where I want each hole – I prefer to carve these with a small carbide burr, rather than using a center punch.  Then, on to drilling holes – but, since this is a high carbon steel, I can’t just grab a drill bit and begin drilling.  This steel will work harden quite easily, and if I start with a 1/4 inch drill bit, I can probably make it about halfway through the steel thickness before the drill bit will locally harden the metal, stall, overheat, and dull itself into complete uselessness.  So, instead, I’ll “sneak up” on it.  I start with a 1/8 inch diameter drill bit – this size seems to drill through most anything.  Once the 1/8 inch holes are done, I’ll re-drill then with a bit 1/16 inch larger, and keep switching up to larger bits until I reach the target size, in the case, 1/4 inch diameter.  Above, you can see the step by step results.

I can remove a little more weight by cutting out the web in between the holes with a jeweler’s saw, so I carved locating dimples and drilled extra holes to shorten the path the saw has to take.  I won’t saw the web out yet – I try to operate in what I call “graceful degradation mode.”  This is a risk-reduction strategy I’ve used most of my life, and it works out really well for me.  Since I still need to refine the shape of the blade, a critical part of the operation that I can still screw up, I’ll wait on the sawing effort until I’m sure the blade is going to be successful.  I drilled the holes before the blade became sharp, however, since should there be a mishap during drilling, a sharp, whirling blade is more dangerous than a whirling dull one…risk reduction in action.

Above, after the first round of draw filing with a coarse file.  I’ll do all four sides, then switch to finer cut files.


After several rounds of careful draw filing with a medium cut bastard file.


Above are top, bottom and side views of the blade finished with a worn out fine cut file

And here, after cutting out the webs with the jeweler’s saw.  At this point, I’ll probably live with the blade for a day or two, thinking my options before making the decisions I have yet to make…

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Ants Miseretto part 2

Today I’m forging the miseretto blade.  I started by upsetting the blade from the sides, in order to thicken it up a bit.


Above, I’m just beginning the process.  If you look closely, you might be able to make out how the center of the blade looks a little lower than the edges – the metal is beginning to mushroom a little as I drive the mass of the steel towards the center of the blade.  I repeat the process of heat and beat multiple times until the blade is thick enough, hammering both from the edges, top and bottom, and “on the diamond.”  Forging “on the diamond” (from the corners) will forming the diamond cross section of the blade, and also begin tapering the blade towards the tip.  Tapering it will also lengthen the blade, so I’ll have to cut off some eventually.

Here’s the miseretto in the forge heating back up to forging temperature.  It’s really HOT in there.


Above I’ve finished the forging, and carefully made sure everything is straight.  In this image I’m “normalizing” the dagger.  Normalizing is heating the steel up to its critical temperature ( a light orange, in the case of this 1080 carbon steel) and letting it air cool back to “black heat.”  This process will relieve the stresses I put into the steel by whacking it during forging, and also refine the grain size.  I’ll repeat this heat/air cool cycle three times.


And, above, are top and side views of the miseretto after forging and normalizing, ready to begin grinding and filing.

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Ants Miseretto part 1

Well, now that I have several sheets of shibuichi in hand, I turned my attention to making a knife.  First (and this is always the most difficult part!) I had to decide on a design.  The subject I chose was ants, so I’m going to inlay tiny ants in 24 karat gold in the shibuichi scales.  Lots more to decide later, but this gives me a target to shoot at, so I had to come up with an appropriate looking knife to go along with what will (hopefully) result in an elegant presentation.


So, I struggled with the above type designs for several days, but nothing was really grabbing my imagination.  Starting to panic – I needed to get something going, but nothing was really working for me.


Then, the idea. I’ve always liked the long, graceful Italian stiletto design, and have made several thin medieval-style misericordia in the past (see the image above).  I haven’t done one of these lately, and they proved to be popular, so, bingo!, an idea that would probably go well with the ants theme.

Misericordia were medieval stabbing weapons, supposedly intended to provide “mercy” (misericordia is “pity” or “mercy” in Latin) to seriously wounded foes on the battlefield. Typical blades are diamond or triangular in cross section, without sharpened edges. Not intended for cutting, they could slip in between the cracks of armor.  I’m a little skeptical about the “mercy” part, but I wasn’t there back in the “bad ole days,” so what do I really know about it?  Since this knife is intended to be small and elegant, maybe I’ll call this one a “miseretto.”  Yeah, that’s it…we’ll call it a miseretto.


Of course, it was just an idea.  Not quite ready for prime time, so it was back to the drawing board (literally!).  I sketched around for a while and came up with a basic design, then scaled it so I could get both handle scales out of a single sheet of the shibuichi, then played around with scaling the blade and the handle for a pleasing aspect.  A few of the attempts above.  The one I decided on (with my wife’s “guidance”) is the design on the right.


But, still a little uncertain, I decided on a wooden macquette to help with the decision process.  The wooden blank cutout is on the left, and the design rubber cemented onto a piece of 1080 carbon steel on the right.


Above is the wooden mockup carved from a piece of walnut the same thickness as my carbon steel, and the wooden blade shaped with a knife.


And here, above, with the decorative “scoops” added with a sanding drum.  Looking pretty good, so on to the steel.


The steel blank cut out, next to the wooden mockup.


And, the other side.  Next, I’ll have to shape the blade.  I think I’ll upset the blade from the sides to add a little thickness, and maybe forge the basic taper into the blade, then start with the angle grinder, followed by files.  I’m feeling better, now that I’m finally rolling again…

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Making Shibuichi part 2

I spent today rolling out my three shibuichi ingots into useable sheet.


Here’s a picture of my Durston rolling mill.


Above, I’m pickling the cast ingots in Sparex pickle. “Pickling” dissolves the dark oxides formed when the molten metal hits oxygen in the atmosphere. I use a small crockpot to keep the liquid hot, so it works faster. Three to four minutes per pickling cycle ought to do it.


Here’s the small 20% shibuichi ingot after pickling, and a quick brushing of the surface. Sorry for the lousy focus…my bad.

Here is the ingot after the first round of rolling, and after I annealed it. Annealing is heating the shibuichi to glowing red – this softens the hardened metal. Shibuichi “work hardens” quite easily when being rolled (gets hard and brittle), and if I don’t anneal it pretty often, it will crack and ruin all my hard work. I’ll pickle the ingot again, followed by brushing to remove the dark oxides.


Here’s the ingot emerging from the rolling mill. Notice how nice and smooth the rough cast surface is now.


And above, the ingot has had several rounds of rolling, annealing,and pickling. Notice the crack developing at the top. Hopefully this crack won’t get too much worse as I continue rolling, lengthening and thinning the shibuichi. I’ll just have to take the crack into consideration when designing. I can probably get two to three small pendants from this piece.


And here is the finished 20% shibuichi sheet. Note the arrow to remind myself of the crack…


Above, here is a magically computer-edited series of one of the other ingots. The red rectangle is a tracing of the original ingot, and each of the others is after a round of rolling, annealing,and pickling. Notice how each time lengthens the shibuichi sheet (thinning the sheet as it goes). Since the rolling mill tends to bend the sheet as it exits, I also forge the sheet flat on my anvil after most of the rounds of rolling. That explains the textured surface you can see on the three sheets on the right.


I noticed something interesting happening with the shibuichi I haven’t noticed before. The sheet on the right is how shibuichi appears after freshly brushing the surface. The sheet on the left is noticeably silver colored after pickling – I think this is “depletion gilding”. Depletion gilding is a jewelry technique where you can build up a pure silver surface in a silver alloy containing copper, by repeatedly burning the copper at the surface into an oxide layer, then pickling, which dissolves away the copper oxides, but leaves the silver. Just a cool thing I’ve never seen before, probably because I didn’t know enough to notice it!


And, here are all three shibuichi sheets, completed and ready to use.

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Making Shibuichi part 1

Since I’ve spent the last week working on my web site format change, my wife is making me get serious about starting a new knife, so I have to make some shibuichi ingots for the knife handle scales. Shibuichi is an ancient Japanese precious bronze art alloy, typically made of 75% copper and 25% silver. It comes out as kind of a hard pinky bronze, which will patinate to a dark grayish color. Although it is a somewhat expensive alloy, it engraves and carves really nicely. I probably used an ounce of silver in the ingots I made today (about $35 worth).


Here I’m weighing out the copper scraps for a single ingot on my little electronic scale. Once I have the amount of copper I want, I’ll figure out how much silver I need to add (in the white lid at the bottom of the photo).


Above is the equipment I’m using to create the shibuichi alloy, melt it and cast it into a small, thin ingot. From the left is my oxy/acetylene torch, here just burning acetylene (no oxygen) – very smoky, and used like this to put a layer of soot on my ingot mold, the little black assembly at the top of the image. The soot will keep the shibuichi from soldering itself to the mold. Also in the picture is a small melting crucible, a container of borax flux for cleaning the scuzz off the melted metal, and the flint striker to light the torch.


Here you can see the crucible and assembled ingot mold. In this melt I’m going to use up a little extra bit of shibuichi and some scrap. Since shibuichi is so expensive, I collect all my scrap for re-use. This ingot I’ll probably use for a couple of small pendants. I cast my own shibuichi because it’s the only way I can get the thicknesses I need for knife scales, and commercially available thin sheet shibuichi costs about $30 per square inch. This much commercial shibuichi in 16 guage thickness would probably cost about $100.


Above, I’ve cast the ingot and opened the ingot mold. The shibuichi is the copper colored rectangle in the sooty mold at the top.


And here are the three ingots I cast today, two 25% silver shibuichi ingots, and one about 20% from the scraps I had on hand, since some of the scraps were 15% shibuichi and I estimated…

I’ll eventually put the ingots I cast today through a rolling mill to lengthen them and make them the proper thickness for my knife scales.

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Cherry Blossom and Dragonfly Tsuba Pendant part 6

Finally finishing this one up.


Above, have cut the ribs in the dragonfly wings, and begun the texture on the wings.


Above, the wings are finished.


Above, everything finished, and patina applied.


Above, finished with the carving, patina applied, and inked. Only have to affix the chain, and it’s ready to go!



Here are the final images of the Cherry Blossom and Dragonfly Tsuba Pendant, complete with chain and jump ring. The last image shows it in my hand for a sense of scale.

Soon available for purchase at BladeGallery.com 

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Cherry Blossom and Dragonfly Tsuba Pendant part 5


More cherry flowers, at 4 o’clock.


Above, with a quick patina.


And here, starting to round out the dragonfly parts, just rough carved so far with carbide burrs.


OK, above is the dragonfly body carved.  Now to work on the wings – I have to decide how to make the wings look right.


Above is a test I did in copper – the wing on the lower left is one method, and the others are different. I mulled it over while vegetating in front of the TV last night. I think I’ve decided on a hybrid between the two.

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